The men on board the steamer were a very turbulent and evil disposed
set, apparently the dregs of the population; most of them were
Londoners, probably well-known to the police. There was one among them,
seemingly a broken down gentleman, the most desperate character I ever
met. He struck his officer soon after we started, and vowed he would
throw him overboard, for refusing to allow more brandy; but for this
he was cruelly flogged, and as he was of a tender constitution, he
remained under my care all the rest of the voyage.
We arrived at San Sebastian on the forenoon of the sixth day after
our departure. The climate had changed rapidly since we left England
behind us. On this morning the sun was shining cheerily, and the air
genial as in our May. The harbour is a wondrously beautiful sight.
Two high rocks rise boldly out of the sea; the little bay lies,
crescent-shaped, between them, its waters deep blue, the sandy shore a
golden yellow. The country beyond, for some distance, is undulating,
of a rich verdure, saddened and beautified by ruined convents and
villages. Next come the Pyrenees, clothed with dark-oak forests nearly
to their summits; their crests huge rocks strangely shaped. Those great
mountains are thrown together confusedly; you might think they were
the waves of some stormy sea suddenly turned into stone. Many among
them are of a great size; far as the eye can reach rises peak over
peak, bluer and fainter in the distance, the outline more irregular
and indistinct, till at last the blue of earth and the blue of heaven
are one. The rugged little island of Santa Clara is midway between
the rocky points of the crescent-harbour; it lies to the right hand
as we enter the shallow and dangerous waters. On the headland beyond
stands a lighthouse, now turned into a fortress. We could see in the
distance little dark figures moving about this tower like mites on a
cheese, and swarming up to the top, probably to look at us. "Those are
Carlists," said my friend. How I strained my eyes to see them! Real,
living enemies--men pledged to slay us with shot and steel--in fight or
in calm vengeance! But we have left our homes and come over the sea to
slay them! A few days, and we shall meet once, we who have never met
before--some of us not to part again, but to lie down in a long sleep
close together, perhaps to cross each other's path no more in this wide
world. Away, among those blue mountains, mothers are sadly thinking of
their soldier sons, the little moving specks before us, perhaps almost
as sadly as mine thinks of me. That sun warms us and our foes alike;
and, from far beyond, He who bade men to "love one another," looks down
with sorrowing pity on us both. I spoke some of these thoughts to my
schoolfellow; they did not please him much; so he told me that I was
only a doctor, and knew nothing about glory. I had then no more to say.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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