Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 64, No. 393, July 1848Various
History
Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 64, No. 393, July 1848
Various
England -- Periodicals; Scotland -- Periodicals
some mountains, his Samoyede companions suddenly disappeared with
their tent and their reindeer, leaving him with three ill-equipped
sledges and a few Ostyak attendants, and with no choice but to make
the best of his way back to Obdorsk, whence he soon afterwards
returned to Tobolsk. There he passed his Christmas, and then resumed
his journey; but this time in a southerly direction. After having
penetrated to sixty-seven degrees north, the region of eternal
frost, he struck southwards to the latitude of the Land's End,
making a dip into China, which furnishes some of the best chapters
in his book.
Irkutsk, the last town of importance north of the Chinese frontier,
consists of nineteen hundred houses, fifty being of brick, and
the remainder of wood, and is probably the cheapest place in the
civilised world as regards articles of food. We say "civilised,"
because, although situate in a barbarous region, and possessing
a population of a very motley character, the town has much that
is European in its aspect and usages. It possesses an exchange,
government factories, where newly-arrived convicts are employed,
a school of medicine, a gymnasium, and a handsome parade-ground.
In the market, formed of wooden booths, the stores of food were
enormous. Beef cost about a halfpenny a pound; of flour one penny
would purchase nearly eight and a half pounds; partridges and
heathfowl were sold at five farthings a-piece. But we are in haste
to get amongst the Celestials. First comes a gallop across More
Baikal, a large lake just beyond Irkutsk, on which the Russian
government maintains an armed flotilla. This gallop is a fine bit of
helter-skelter, over ice brilliant as glass. "There was no snow upon
the ice, so that its surface shone like a polished mirror in the
moonlight. The horses that were put under our sledges in Kadilnaya
had to be held on each side till the very moment of starting, when
they broke at once into full gallop, which they kept up till we
landed on the further shore. We completed seven German miles in two
hours and a quarter, undoubtedly the most extraordinary as well as
the most speedy stage upon any route in Russia." Thence, onwards
to the frontier line. "We followed the crowd that pressed forward
towards a narrow door in the front of a long wooden building. This
admitted us into the inner quadrangle of a Russian warehouse. A
corresponding door, at the opposite side of this court, opens just
upon a wooden barricade, which constitutes the barrier of China. In
this there is a wide portal, ornamented with pillars, and displaying
the Russian eagle above it, along with the cipher of the reigning
emperor, Nicholas the First, by whom it was erected." On passing
through this gate, the change is immediate and striking,--from
Russian sobriety of aspect and hue to the gaudy finery of China.
Maimachen, the name of the Chinese town visited by Mr Erman, has a
very masquerading air to a European eye. The walls on either side
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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