Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 65, No. 403, May, 1849Various
History
Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 65, No. 403, May, 1849
Various
England -- Periodicals; Scotland -- Periodicals
The doctor pardoned his servant's peculations more easily than his
blunders--one of which, that occurred upon the road to Erivan, was
certainly provoking enough to so eager a naturalist. On the lonely
banks of a canal, apparently the work of nature rather than of man,
(although local traditions maintain the contrary,) one of the outlets
of the alpine lake of Chenk-sha, or Blue Water, Dr Wagner encountered
some Armenian anglers, who had secured a rich store of extremely
curious fish. He purchased a dozen specimens, and on arriving at the
next posting station, he bade his Cossack put them in a leathern
bottle of spirits of wine, whilst he himself, armed with the
geological hammer, availed himself of the short halt to explore some
adjacent rocks. On his return, he found Ivan hard at work executing
his orders, in obedience to which this Fair-service from the Don had
duly immersed the icthyological curiosities in alcohol, but had
previously _cut them in pieces_, "in order that on arriving at Erivan,
they might taste more strongly of the pickle."
Eshmiadzini is about fifteen miles from Erivan, across the plain of
the Araxes, a monotonous stony flat, offering little worthy of note.
Dr Wagner had expected, in the church and residence of the chief of
the Armenian Christians, a stately and imposing edifice, something
after the fashion of Strassburg cathedral; and he wondered greatly not
to behold its turrets or spire rising in the distance long before he
came within sound of its bells. In this, as in various other instances
during his travels, by indulging his imagination, he stored up for
himself a disappointment. A clumsy stunted dome, a mud-walled convent,
ugly environs, a miserable village, black pigs wallowing in a pool of
mud--such was the scene that met his disgusted vision. The people were
worthy of the place, but from them he had not expected much. He had
seen enough of the Armenian priesthood at Tefflis, in Constantinople,
and elsewhere, to appreciate them at their just value. Some dirty,
stupid-looking monks lounged about the convent entrance, gossiping and
vermin-hunting. The travellers were conducted into a large room, where
the archbishops held their conclaves. Five of these dignitaries were
seated at a long table, dressed in blue robes with loose sleeves, and
with cowls over their heads. The one in a red velvet arm-chair, at the
head of the table, represented the absent patriarch. He was a handsome
man, with an imposing beard, of which he was very vain. Laying his
hand upon his heart, with an assumption of great dignity, he addressed
a few words of flattering welcome to Dr Wagner, of whose coming he had
been forewarned by the Russian general Neidhardt. "We have long
expected you," he said. "The whole of our clergy rejoice to welcome
within their walls a man of your merit and reputation." The
compliment, although laconic, was not ill turned, but it was
thoroughly insincere. An eruption of Ararat, or a troop of Kurdish
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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