Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 68, No. 421, November 1850Various
General
Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 68, No. 421, November 1850
Various
England -- Periodicals; Scotland -- Periodicals
This is intended, or at all events given, as an accurate picture
of a respectable London tailoring establishment, where the men
receive decent wages. Such a house is called an "honourable" one,
in contradistinction to others, now infinitely the more numerous,
which are springing up in every direction under the fostering care of
competition. As it is most important that no doubt should be left in
the minds of any as to the actual condition of the working classes, we
quote, not from Alton Locke, but from one pamphlet out of many which
are lying before us, a few sentences explanatory of the system upon
which journeymen tailors in London are compelled to work. The pamphlet,
for aught we know, may be written by the author of the novel; but it is
clear, specific, and apparently well-vouched.
"It appears that there are two distinct tailor trades--the
'honourable' trade, now almost confined to the West End, and
rapidly dying out there; and the 'dishonourable' trade of the
show-shops and slop-shops--the plate-glass palaces, where
gents--and, alas! those who would be indignant at that name--buy
their cheap-and-nasty clothes. The two names are the tailors'
own slang: slang is new and expressive enough though, now and
then. The honourable shops in the West End number only sixty; the
dishonourable, four hundred and more; while at the East End the
dishonourable trade has it all its own way. The honourable part
of the trade is declining at the rate of one hundred and fifty
journeymen per year; the dishonourable increasing at such a rate,
that in twenty years it will have absorbed the whole tailoring
trade, which employs upwards of twenty-one thousand journeymen.
At the honourable shops the work is done, as it was universally
thirty years ago, on the premises, and at good wages. In the
dishonourable trade, the work is taken home by the men, to be done
at the very lowest possible prices, which decrease year by year,
almost month by month. At the honourable shops, from 36s. to 24s.
is paid for a piece of work for which the dishonourable shop pays
from 22s. to 9s. _But not to the workman_; happy is he if he really
gets two-thirds or half of that. For at the honourable shops the
master deals directly with his workmen; while at the dishonourable
ones, the greater part of the work, if not the whole, is let out
to contractors, or middle men--'_sweaters_,' as their victims
significantly call them--who in their turn let it out again,
sometimes to the workmen, sometimes to fresh middlemen; so that out
of the price paid for labour on each article, not only the workmen,
but the sweater, and perhaps the sweater's sweater, and a third,
and a fourth, and a fifth have to draw their profit. And when the
labour price has been already beaten down to the lowest possible,
how much remains for the workmen after all these deductions, let
the poor fellows themselves say!"[50]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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