Blanco y Colorado: Old Days among the Gauchos of UruguayTetley, William C.
History
Blanco y Colorado: Old Days among the Gauchos of Uruguay
Tetley, William C.
Uruguay -- Description and travel; Uruguay -- Social life and customs
animals printed on the notes I was about to pay him. To him nothing
else mattered. Having given a receipt for the money, I rolled up the
notes and put them into the large pockets of my carpincho skin belt, and
when I got into the street, I took out my revolver, just to see that it
was all right. I then returned to the hotel to see my horse was
comfortable, had some supper, and went early to bed. It was then fine,
with a young moon shining brightly, but I had not long got off to sleep
when I was awakened by a loud banging and knocking at my door. Thinking
it might be someone come after the money, I first got hold of my
revolver, before going to see, but it was nothing more than a visitor
who had been drinking too much wine and failed to find his proper
bedroom. It somehow seemed to me that the name of the hotel did not
clearly describe its character. I awoke to find the sky dull and cloudy,
and a very cold wind blowing from the south. I succeeded in getting some
hot coffee, with bread and butter. I then saddled up, paid my bill, and
made a start. When I got away from the town, I found the track very
muddy and slippery. The "rosillo" was a good horse, who could pick his
way carefully, and I was obliged to travel slowly. As I passed along,
the country on either side looked dreary and desolate. Such cattle as I
saw stood grouped with their backs to the cold wind, while the sheep
were mostly huddled together, their fleeces wet and sodden with the
rain. When I reached the river Cufre, I found the water high and
swollen, having evidently come down a good deal during the night. I
entered it as far up the bank as the pass would permit, so as to leave
me as much room as possible to land on the other side, in case the water
should be deeper in the middle than I expected. This turned out to be
the case, for my horse lost his feet for a moment, gave a violent
plunge, and I got wet through right up to my waist. However, he was not
really nervous, and recovering himself, succeeding in making a landing a
little lower down, so that we both reached the opposite side with
nothing worse than a bit of a ducking. My first thought was about the
money. My "carpincho" skin belt, which contained it was, of course,
having been under water, soaked through and through; it was all in paper
notes, many of them much worn and dilapidated, and I knew if I left them
where they were they would soon turn into pulp, and become quite
worthless. Moreover, to make things worse, it all of a sudden commenced
to rain. Looking round, about half a mile distant on some higher ground
to the right, I saw what appeared to be a small place belonging to a
native. There were only two or three mud ranchos, with half a dozen
poplar trees standing near them, but from one of the low chimneys I saw
smoke rising. I thereupon determined to make straight for it, and see if
I could get permission to dry the notes by the fire. It was not a very
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