Blanco y Colorado: Old Days among the Gauchos of UruguayTetley, William C.
History
Blanco y Colorado: Old Days among the Gauchos of Uruguay
Tetley, William C.
Uruguay -- Description and travel; Uruguay -- Social life and customs
in the courtyard, about eleven o'clock, so that he might be safer if
anyone came. The little town of Colla lay pleasantly situate on the bank
of a small river. It consisted of one main street, with houses unevenly
built, and somewhat scattered on either side. About half way down this
widened a little, forming a small plaza, or square, where a band played
on summer evenings, and people walked round and round, or sat about and
listened to the music, and enjoyed also the pleasure of looking at their
neighbours. There was a Roman Catholic Church, and some rather
sordid-looking barracks, and quarters for soldiers. Half a dozen
pulperias, and general stores, and two or three "fondes," or second-rate
hotels, with here and there a private residence, often enclosed inside a
garden, completed the buildings of any importance, while stretching away
behind these, on either side were the smaller houses and ranchos,
occupied by natives, more or less of the working class. Some of these
had spaces of cultivated ground attached, and at others two or three
cows and a horse or two, and some poultry would be kept, just as
happened to be most convenient. There were plenty of soldiers about in
the streets, as well as in the cafes and fondas. I rode straight up to
the police station, and it was not very long before I was able to
conclude my business. Having done this, I did not go to an hotel, as I
should otherwise have done, to put up my horse and have some breakfast,
on account of the soldiers, but I made my way to the house of a man
called Pedro Dominguez. It was next to a large general store, which he
owned as well, where he carried on an extensive and profitable business,
as a buyer of produce and a seller of merchandise, and had long had
dealings with the Estancia Pichinango. He received me with courtesy. A
man below the middle height, getting on in years, and somewhat bent in
figure, he looked to me as much like a Portuguese as anything else.
"Buen dia, Senor," he said, as I rode up and explained who I was.
"Please come inside, and I can put up your horse in my stable."
Moreover, he invited me to have some breakfast, which was very good of
him, for I began to feel hungry after my ride. His house was
comfortable, and he had a good sized garden attached, very well kept,
and he told me he was a great lover of flowers. While we were enjoying
our meal one of the black, hairless dogs, greatly esteemed by natives,
trotted into the room. It was about the size of a small terrier, with a
perfectly smooth black skin, entirely devoid of hair. It had a pointed
nose and a pair of very bright eyes, and they are said to be very
affectionate. Senor Dominguez told me he had a widowed daughter and a
grandchild who lived with him, but just then they were away on a visit
to friends in Colonia. Of course, we talked about the war. He said he
had never taken any part in politics, but his sympathies were with the
Blancos, and he was very glad to think that for the present Colla at any
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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