1. Laces made with cut threads, or of repeated details, are executed on a round cushion, which can be easily turned and they require but a limited number of bobbins (generally not more than two dozen). They may be said to be composed essentially of a braid which grows wider or narrower as it follows all the variations of the pattern, and is interrupted as often as is necessary. The parts in process of operation are attached to those already finished by veritable running knots made with the aid of a little crochet needle, a tool absolutely indispensable to the making of this kind of lace. The design of the whole is divided into portions so small that they cover only the middle of the cushion. It is necessary to have all around the detail, space for the bobbins, each of which carries a thread about four inches long. [Illustration: _j._ Bobbins used in making Belgian laces _1_, _2_ and _3_ Valenciennes _4_ and _5_ Malines] [Illustration: _j._ Bobbins used in making Belgian laces _6_ Malines _7_ Point de Paris _8_ Application _9_ Torchon _10_ Duchesse] [Illustration: _k._ A pattern for bobbin lace, with l, m, n, the braids in which it must be executed] Each fragment is traced on a dark blue paper or _patron_ on which the place for the pins is not indicated (sketch k.). The lace-maker pins this blue paper to the middle of her cushion, covering the whole with a piece of dark blue linen which has a hole in the middle large enough to leave free the part of the pattern actually being worked. The lace already finished is thus protected. She then places a pin on the spot where she decides to begin, attaching the necessary number of bobbins and starts to weave as a weaver does, first from right to left, then from left to right, carrying the two bobbins holding the threads forming the woof (_trame_) successively above and below the threads forming the warp (_chaine_). Each time all of the threads of the warp have been crossed by the threads of the woof, she places a pin, and now the two woof threads caught by this pin lead back to the opposite side. She turns her cushion according to the direction of the braid she is executing, so that the threads forming the warp always fall vertically. [Illustration: _l._ A braid which forms the _toile_] [Illustration: _m._ A _grillé_ braid] [Illustration: _n._ A braid of 4 threads] The fundamental stitch in these laces and that which forms the greatest part of the braids is the _point de toile_, or _toile_ (sketch 1.). Certain open stitches are also employed, the most common being the _grillé_ or half-stitch (sketch m.). The different varieties of bobbin laces made with cut threads, or in repeated pieces are: _a._ Bruges, the flowers are united by brides or bars that are braided with four threads (sketch n.). _b._ Duchesse (made only with fine thread, loosely worked and producing a not particularly pleasing result).