Grammont, or Chantilly lace, is usually made of black silk thread. The mesh is the same as that of Point de Lille. In it the toile is replaced by the grillé, which adds greatly to the lightness of the effect. [Illustration: _r._ Binche mesh] N. B.—To be understood technically, all these laces made with continuous thread should be considered from the point of view of the place they occupy on the cushion of the worker: They are held vertically with the selvage at the left. [Illustration: _s._ Mesh of “snow-ball” pattern, used in Binche] It is necessary to mention with these laces, Torchon, the most common of all, which has little artistic value, and has entered more and more into the domain of the machine. Torchon base (sketch w.). [Illustration: _t._ Malines mesh] [Illustration: _u._ Point de Paris mesh] [Illustration: _v._ Point de Lille mesh] [Illustration: _w._ Torchon base] [Illustration: _x._ Picot] [Illustration: _y._ Cluny pattern] Group _A._—Cluny laces demand great ingenuity in execution. The most simple are made entirely by braiding in such a way as to produce an effect of interlacing (sketch y.). The braids are formed of four threads; when the interlacing is more important they become more complicated. At times the braids group themselves to form the flat surface or toile which later will resolve again into braids. They unite and part, sometimes dividing into strands (brides) of two threads according to the lines of the design. This design should be absolutely precise. And since in it the future employment of each thread must be constantly foreseen, it is quite impossible to compose a Cluny lace pattern without a knowledge of the technique of that lace (sketch y). [Illustration: _z._ Interpreted Torchon pattern] [Illustration: Completed lace] Sometimes the general name guipure is given to Cluny, as well as to all laces made with continuous thread which have not a mesh base. INDEX Aerseele, 110 Albert King, 194 Alcantara, Comtesse d’, 252 Alençon (town), 31 Alençon lace, 38, 132 Allard, Mme. Josse, 169, 172, 209 Alost, Lace region of, 149, 169ff, 224 Spinneries of, 82 America, Aid from, 17, 235, 236 Lace buyer of, 252 Laces displayed in, 40 Americans in Ghent, 248 Amies de la Dentelle, Convent subsidized by, 218 Lace quality conservation by, 100, 272 Prices under, 103 School reforms under, 15 War committee, see Brussels Lace Committee Antik lace, see Flanders, Old Antwerp, Old Flanders in, 115 Port of, 30, 166 Province of, 146 Application lace, 226, 241 Areas producing, 277 Bobbins for, 289 Lacets for, 171 Method of making, 221ff, 292 Restoration of, 256 Tulle base for, 41, 259 Ardois, 109 Argentin lace, 38 Arras, 31 Asper, 252 Bachte, 252 Baelegem, 251