Verrey’s, on the other side of Regent Street, I have mentioned as the
second West End establishment at which a French dinner could be obtained
in those gastronomically evil days which preceded the great awakening.
When I first knew Verrey’s, it was run by old George Krehl, a most
entertaining man of the old school. He was not a Parisian, or, indeed, a
Frenchman at all; but he had been educated in the French methods, and his
bisque was the most delicate to be obtained in London. At the death of
the old man the restaurant descended to his son George, who has since
died. George the younger Krehl was a dog-fancier in rather a large way
of business. He ran a paper called _The Stock-keeper_, devoted to the
interests of the “fancy.” Krehl the Younger introduced some new breeds
to Society, among which were the basset-hound and the schipperké.
In old Krehl’s time Tennyson resorted to the restaurant during his visits
to town. The poet took quite a fancy to the proprietor, and Krehl
preserved many souvenirs of the poet—plans of battle drawn on backs of
menu-cards, and other trifles whereby Tennyson thought to make his
meaning quite clear to a foreign listener.
It was in the old Krehl’s time that I received an invitation to dine with
an Australian magnate of British birth, on a visit to the mother-country.
The dinner was served in what was then known as the Cameo Room, and the
occasion became memorable to me by reason of an acquaintanceship then
made, which was destined to ripen into a lasting friendship. It was in
this way. I found myself seated next to a clergyman. The circumstance
at first caused me to curse my luck, for I have never taken much stock in
parsons. But before we had got to the fish I found that my neighbour was
not at all of the class of clergyman with whom, to that time, it had been
my fortune to get acquainted. He was a man of medium height, about fifty
years of age, broad-shouldered, and of portly figure. His grey beard was
trimmed and pointed, and he wore a moustache. His name was Bachelor, and
he was a gaol chaplain.
At that time I discovered nothing of the life-work of the individual
sitting beside me; nor from himself did I ever hear anything, save
incidentally, of his services to his generation—services never
acknowledged, and services sometimes resented and always neglected by the
authorities. I had beside me that night, in fact, one of those who, in
their own persons, illustrate the truth of Henry Taylor’s apothegm: “The
world knows nothing of its greatest men.” Here, at least, something may
be recorded as a memorial to him. And at the same time the narrative may
be enlivened by one or two of those stimulating recollections of which he
seemed to be an inexhaustible mine. I never sat down to a dinner at
which I enjoyed myself more. My new friend was a man of the world, a
gourmet, a fine judge of wine, and withal a practical philanthropist,
unresting, untiring, and undespairing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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