Bohemian Paris of To-day: Second EditionMorrow, W. C.
History
Bohemian Paris of To-day: Second Edition
Morrow, W. C.
Bohemianism; Paris (France) -- Social life and customs
To-morrow would be Sunday. When it had passed and the evening was come,
and after we had enjoyed two courses of Madame Darblay's juicy gigots
and irresistible beans, with the incomparable sauce afforded by the
presence of the sunny actresses who were there, we walked over to the
Boulevard St.-Jacques and waited for the Montmartre 'bus to come along.
These small, ancient omnibuses are different from the other vehicles of
that breed in Paris, in that instead of having a narrow curved stairway
at the rear leading up to the impériale, there are but three or four
iron foot-rests against the outside of the rear wall, with an iron rod
on either side to cling to in mounting. Now, the traveller who would
reach the impériale must be something of either an acrobat or a sailor,
because, first, as these 'buses do not stop, a running leap has to be
made for the ladder, and, second, because of the pitching and rolling
of the lumbering vehicle, the catching and climbing are not easy. If you
carry a cane or a parcel, it must be held in the teeth until the ascent
is made, for both hands have all they can do in the ladder exercise.
The gleam of the red lamp coming down the street prepared us for a test
of our agility. As only one could mount the ladder at a time, and as I
was the first to attack the feat, Bishop had to run behind for nearly
a block before I could give him the right of way up the ladder. The
conductor registered deux sur l'impériale as we swung to the top and
took seats forward, just behind the driver. Ladies and fat gentlemen are
rarely, or never, found riding on the impériale of the Montmartre line.
We wrapped up in our big warm coats and lay back smoking three-sous
cigars (always three-sous ones on Sunday), and as the driver cracked his
whip and the heavy machine went rolling along, we enjoyed the wonderful
treat of seeing gay Paris of a Sunday night from the top of an omnibus.
There is hardly anything more delightful, particularly from the top of a
St. Jacques-Montmartre 'bus, which generally avoids the broad, brilliant
streets and goes rolling and swaying through the narrow, crooked streets
of old Paris. Here there is hardly room for such a vehicle to pass, and
one is anxious lest one's feet sweep off the gas-lamps that fly past.
An intimate view of the domestic life of Paris presents itself likewise,
for, being on a level with the second story windows, you have flitting
visions of the Parisian ménage in all its freedom and variety. At this
time of the evening the windows are wide open and the dinner-tables are
spread near them, for a view of the street below.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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