Bohemian San Francisco: Its restaurants and their most famous recipes—The elegant art of dining.Edwords, Clarence E. (Clarence Edgar)
History
Bohemian San Francisco: Its restaurants and their most famous recipes—The elegant art of dining.
Edwords, Clarence E. (Clarence Edgar)
Cooking; Hotels -- California -- San Francisco
One needs to spend a day in the Italian quarter of San Francisco to come
to a full realization of the difference between the requirements of even
the poorest Italian family and the average American family of the better
class. We need but say that we have been studying this question for
nearly twenty years yet even now we meet with surprises in the way of
new delicacies and modes of using herbs and spices in food preparation.
If we were to attempt even to enumerate the various herbs, spices,
flavorings, delicacies, and pastes to be found in a well regulated
Italian shop it would take many pages of this book, yet every one of
these articles has its own individual and peculiar use, and the
knowledge of these articles and how to use them is what makes the
difference between American and Foreign cooking. Each herb has a
peculiar quality as a stomachic and it must be as delicately measured as
if it were a medicine. The use of garlic, so much decried as plebeian,
is the secret of some of the finest dishes prepared by the highest
chefs. It must not be forgotten that in the use of all flavors and
condiments there may be an intemperance, there lying the root of much of
the bad cooking.
Garlic, for instance, is a flavor and not a food, yet many of the lower
class foreigners eat it on bread, making a meal of dark bread, garlic
and red wine. It is offensive to sensitive nostrils and vitiates the
taste when thus used, but when properly added to certain foods it gives
an intangible flavor which never fails to elicit praise. What is true of
garlic is also true of the many herbs that are used. It is easy to pass
from a rare flavor that makes a most savory dish to a taste of medicine
that spoils a dinner. With the well-known prodigal and wasteful habits
of America the American who learns the use of herbs usually makes the
initial mistake of putting in the flavoring herbs with too lavish a
hand, and it is only after years of experience that a knowledge of
proper combinations is obtained.
Visitors have often expressed wonder at the variety of foods and
delicate flavors in San Francisco restaurants, and possibly this brief
explanation may give some comprehension of why San Franciscans always
want to get back to where they "can get something to eat."
Told in a Whisper
"Surely the old Bohemians of San Francisco did not spend all their time
in restaurants. How did they live when at home?" This is what was said
to us one day when we were talking about the old days and the old
people. Indeed they did not live all their time in restaurants. Some of
the most enjoyable meals we have eaten have been in the rooms and
apartments of our Bohemian friends, and these meals were prepared
generally by each one present doing his or her part in making it a
success. One would make the salad, another the main dish, and others do
various forms of scullery work, and in the end we would have a meal that
would often put to blush the efforts of many of the renowned chefs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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