Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Scotland -- Description and travel
wisdom. I forget whether it was Catherine Sinclair’s father or brother
who was said to have three dozen feet of daughters; and when he put down
a new pavement--probably from his own quarries--opposite his house in
Edinburgh, it was readily nicknamed the “Giant’s Causeway.” The main
branch of the Sinclairs, whose titles at one time, says Sir Walter,
might have wearied a herald when they were not so rich as many an
English yeoman, is represented near Edinburgh by the ruins of Rosslyn
Castle and the monuments of that beautiful chapel--
Where Rosslyn’s chiefs uncoffined lie
Each baron for a sable shroud
Sheathed in his iron panoply.
The railway, forking for the only Caithness towns, Wick and Thurso, with
their ports Pulteneytown and Scrabster, does not give a fair view of the
county. Its most impressive features, as at our other Land’s End, are to
be looked for in its rim of brown cliffs, tight-packed layers of
flagstones, their faces “etched out in alternate lines of cornice and
frieze,” here dappled by hardy vegetation, there alive with clamorous
sea-fowl. Like the granite, slate, and serpentine edges of Cornwall,
these sandstone rocks have been carved by wind and water into boldest
shapes of capes and bays, dark caverns, funnels, overhanging shelves and
gables, swirling “pots” and foaming reefs, isolated stacks lashed by
every tide, broken teeth bored and filled by every storm, and the deep
chasms here called _geos_, that sometimes lead down to beaches rich in
fine and rare shells, for one, “John o’ Groat’s Buckie,” akin to the
cowries of the tropics. In the damp crevices, also, grow rare herbs such
as that “Holy Grass” found by Robert Dick of Thurso, one of Mr.
Smiles’s “discoveries” in the species of self-helped naturalists. More
truly than of Cornwall, it may be said that Caithness seldom grows wood
enough to make a coffin. Where Cornwall comes short of Caithness is in
the numerous castles, not all of them left to decay, that on the verge
of those northern precipices might often be confounded with Nature’s own
ruins. It was only about the beginning of the eighteenth century that
such strongholds could be deserted for snugger mansions. Here, in 1680,
was the scene of our last private war, when the head of the Breadalbane
Campbells invaded Caithness with a small army, that overcame the
Sinclairs, it is said, by the wily stratagem of causing to be stranded
on their coast a ship freighted with whisky to drown the enemy’s
prudence and resolution.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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