Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Scotland -- Description and travel
illustrated by the Faed brothers’ pictures, and sanctified by the
preaching of Samuel Rutherford. Farther east, on its inlet, is reached
the county town Kirkcudbright, church of St. Cuthbert, who would hardly
know his own name as now pronounced _Kirkoobry_. Here we have an
interesting museum of Galloway antiquities; and a few miles off is
Dundrennan Abbey, poor Mary’s last resting place in her troubled
kingdom, whence she gave herself to the mercy of Elizabeth after her
flight from Langside. The Kirkcudbright branch takes us back to the main
line at Castle Douglas, near which stands the grim tower of a stronghold
whose lords were once a terror to their own country, while over the
Border English nurses would hush babes to rest with--
Hush ye, hush ye, dinna fret ye:
The Black Douglas shall na’ get ye!
Like too many other noble Scottish names, this one has sadly
degenerated, its last exploit to be proud of ending in the catastrophe
that cut short Lord Francis Douglas’s life on the first ascent of the
Matterhorn; and his brother, the late Marquis of Queensberry, made some
stir in the world, least unenviably perhaps by the Queensberry rules of
boxing. Several members of the family have in modern days come to an
obscurely tragic end, as if urged by the Nemesis of forgotten bloodshed.
Their chief title, the Dukedom of Queensberry, had passed to the house
of Buccleuch, along with the princely seat of Drumlanrig in Nithsdale.
The oldest bridge in Scotland leads over the Nith to the largest town of
the southern counties, out of Galloway in the letter, but not in the
spirit. Dumfries, originally the fastness of Frisian pirates whose stock
would “go far,” is set among famous sites and relics. In the Church of
its Greyfriars, Bruce stabbed the Red Comyn, a deed “made siccar” by an
ancestor of the Empress of the French. Near the town are the remains of
Lincluden Abbey, “ruins yet beauteous in decay.” To the south, on the
Galloway side of the estuary, Criffel’s cone rises above the walls of
Sweetheart Abbey, built by John Baliol’s widow as tomb in which her
husband’s heart should lie upon her own. On the opposite side stands
another stately ruin, Caerlaverock Castle, where in the churchyard lies
“Old Mortality,” as “Jeanie Deans” rests at Irongray. To the north is
Lochmaben, the castle, perhaps the birthplace, of Robert Bruce. But the
name that first rises to memory in this Nithsdale countryside is Robert
Burns, tenant of Ellisland under that Dalswinton laird for whom is
claimed the honour of the earliest steamboat experiments. Bruce,
possibly born at Turnberry Castle on the Carrick coast, may have been an
Ayrshire man like Burns, who came to end his broken life at Dumfries,
now counting itself honoured by the sepulchre of one who thus wrote his
own epitaph--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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