He has in a measure justified his attitude by making an amusing book
of it. Mr. Douglas has a well-stored and alert mind, full of by-ways,
that makes for good conversation. As we read him we feel that we are
listening to the racy monologues of a traveller with a special gift for
pouring out the comedy of his discomforts in abusive form. He tells us
how he landed--“with one jump--in Hell,” which is his name for Siena in
winter. “I hate Viareggio at all seasons,” he tells us farther on, and
he describes the inhabitants as “birds of prey: a shallow and rapacious
brood.” At Pisa, when he arrives, “the Arno is the emblem of Despair
... like a torrent of liquid mud--irresolute whether to be earth or
water.” He finds a good landlady at Corsanico, but he immediately
remembers how he had “lived long at the mercy of London landladies and
London charwomen--having suffered the torments of Hell, for more years
than I care to remember, at the hands of those pickpockets and hags
and harpies and drunken sluts” ... “those London sharks and furies.”
At Rome the remembrance of a “sweet old lady friend” sets him thinking
also of her husband, “a worm, a good man in the worst sense of the
word,” “the prince of moralisers, the man who first taught me how
contemptible the human race may become”--“what a face: gorgonising in
its assumption of virtue”--“he ought to have throttled himself at his
mother’s breast.” The absence of mosquitoes and the fewness of the
flies at Rome reminds him again of his sufferings at the hands, so to
speak, of flies in other places. “One of the most cherished projects
of my life,” he declares, “is to assemble, in a kind of anthology, all
the invectives that have been hurled since the beginning of literature
against this loathly dirt-born insect, this living carrion, this blot
on the Creator’s reputation--and thereto add a few of my own.” The
noise of the Roman trams leads him, while lying in bed, to devote the
morning hours to “the malediction of all modern progress, wherein I
include, with firm impartiality, every single advancement in culture
which happens to lie between my present state and that comfortable
cavern in whose shelter I can see myself ensconced as of yore,
peacefully sucking somebody’s marrow, while my women, round the corner,
are collecting a handful of acorns for my dessert,” after which he goes
on to denounce the telephone as “that diabolic invention” and the Press
for “cretinising” the public mind. At Olevana, it is the nightingale
that rouses him to imprecations:
One of them elects to warble in deplorably full-throated ease
immediately below my bedroom window. When this particular fowl
sets up its din at about 3.45 a.m. it is a veritable explosion:
an ear-rending, nerve-shattering explosion of noise.... It
is that blasted bird clearing its throat for a five-hours’
entertainment.... A brick. Methinks I begin to see daylight....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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