Brazil today and tomorrowJoyce, L. E. Elliott (Lilian Elwyn Elliott)
History
Brazil today and tomorrow
Joyce, L. E. Elliott (Lilian Elwyn Elliott)
Brazil; Brazil -- Economic conditions
Another of the few much-travelled roads of the colonial or indeed any
period of Brazilian history, until the opening of the flat lands of the
extreme south by imported European colonists, was one built by the
Jesuits from the coastal colony of São Vicente to their own mission
settlement at São Paulo; this highway negotiated the mangrove swamps of
the flat belt edging the sea and then climbed the rocky barrier of the
Serra do Mar to the cool interior plateau. Before the construction of
this _Caminho do Padre José_ the ascent must have taxed even the stout
spirits of those indomitable priests. The good Padre Vasconcellos wrote,
three hundred years ago, of the journey:—
“The greater part of the way one cannot really travel, but must make
one’s way with hands and feet, clinging to the roots of trees, and this
amongst such crags and precipices that I confess I trembled whenever I
looked downwards. The depth of the valleys is tremendous and the number
of mountains rising one above another appear to leave no hope of
reaching the climax.... It is true that the labour of the ascent has its
compensations now and again, for when I rested upon one of the rocks and
looked below it seemed as if I were gazing from the heaven of the moon
and that the whole round universe lay spread beneath my feet.”
When Fletcher (_Brazil and the Brazilians_) visited São Paulo in 1855,
he made the trip from Santos on horseback over a Serra road, remarking
on the excellence of the section on the flat to Cubitão; he was two days
on the journey and says that the road “which traverses this range of
mountains is probably the finest in Brazil, with the exception of the
Imperial highway to Petropolis.”
This was not the first road constructed to bridge the barrier range, for
in 1790 the Portuguese Governor superseded the Jesuit highway by a new
one which included four miles of solid pavement and had more than one
hundred and eighty angles before it reached the plateau. It was still
too steep for wheeled traffic and the troops of mules which traversed it
in thousands, bringing coffee from the interior after this product
became a commercial factor and before the railway was built, often slid
down the steep slopes on their haunches. It is said that both this and
the first road were lined with the bones of mules that died by the way.
Similar stories are told of the Imperial road, built by that genuinely
progressive ruler, Dom Pedro _segundo_, from Rio de Janeiro to his pet
colony and residence Petropolis, a lovely nook in the heart of the Serra
behind Guanabara Bay. This road, too, traversed flat, marshy ground
before it began to climb the terrible Serra, and the latter section
remained in use for some years after a railroad was constructed over the
flats to the foot of the mountains: engineering difficulties were
considered too great for a railroad until eventually Swiss engineers
applied the same methods as had solved the problem in their own mountain
country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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