And now our destination was Venice, and anxiously we looked out ever and
anon, impatient, long before the time, to see the tall outline of S.
Mark’s campanile against the horizon. The view was too contracted to be
really beautiful; on each side of the railway rank and luxuriant hedges
of acacia sprouted their tall branches above the carriages, and beyond
them might be seen plantations of maize, flax, and other crops, all
remarkable for their prodigious growth and size, and watered by
countless small canals, and here and there with turgid, muddy-looking
streams rushing on from the mountains to discharge themselves into the
Adriatic, and gliding between great artificial banks which gave them the
appearance rather of large canals than rivers. Nothing breaks the dead
monotony of the scene, for it is misty, and the Tyrolese Alps, which
ought to show their jagged peaks to the north, are invisible. The
stations follow each other in quick succession, and at each stands some
diligence or carriage whose ingrained panoply of white dust, added to
that which rises here and there white and cloud-like in the dry glare of
the Italian sun which beams overhead, makes one feel grateful
that--however unpoetical such a mode of approach may be--a railroad
carries us to Venice. Nor is such a country as this along which one
passes from Padua to Venice without its moral. I suppose there is
nothing more certain than that, ordinarily, the appreciation of high
art, and success in its practice, have never been so marked in countries
whose natural features are lovely as in those in which the devoutest
student of nature’s beauties can see nothing to admire or love. So
Venice, surrounded by waters, and then by a country which would be
entirely tame and uninteresting, were it not for the exquisite distant
views of the Friulan Alps, fell back on her own resources, and provided
herself with that substitute for the loveliness of nature which--alone
of man’s works--the loveliness of beautiful art can be. And perhaps, it
is better for the traveller, that no interest should be felt save in the
end of the journey, where the journey has so brave an end!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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