Within this central arch is a grand doorway, the stilted semicircular
arch of which is of three orders, the central plain, the others covered
with carvings. The piers supporting the main arches have tiers of shafts
in two heights; the lower tier corresponding in height with those of the
doors pierced within the arches, and the others, which are smaller in
diameter, and more numerous than those which support them, rising to the
springing-line of the main arches. The side doorways have very
Eastern-looking arches, the semi-circular line being carried on nearly
to the centre, and then turned up into an ogee. These and some other
portions as, e.g., the windows over two of the doors, and the pinnacles
between the gables, belong to the fourteenth century, whilst the finish
of the gables themselves--great ogee crocketed gables with figures at
the apex of each--is probably of the fifteenth century. All these
archways open into the cloister, or narthex already mentioned. Here,
where the roofs still glow with the most precious early mosaics, and the
walls with marble, either used as inlays or for shafts, one gets a first
and not unworthy hint of the beauty which awaits one in the interior.
And then, on entering the nave, the deep tones of an organ are heard
reverberating through the old building; many people kneel devoutly at
their prayers around us; the hot glare of the sun has gone, and in its
place a cool, quiet, dim light reveals the whole magnificence of the
design. It is quite in vain to describe this in formal architectural
terms. The colour is so magnificent that one troubles oneself but little
about the architecture, and thinks only of gazing upon the expanse of
gold and deep richly-tinted mosaic all harmonized together into one
glorious whole. The mosaics commence throughout the church at the level
of the crown of the main arches dividing the nave from the aisles, and
are continued up the remainder of the wall and into the domes; even the
angles or arrises of the walls and arches are covered with gold mosaic;
so that all architectural lines of moulding are entirely lost, and
nothing but a soft swelling and undulating sea of colour is perceived.
There is nothing violent or garish in all this profuse decoration. The
gold mosaic, used as it always is in early works, set irregularly in,
and surrounded by a white line or joint of plaster, is never
conspicuously bright; the drawing of the figures and subjects may be
criticized, but at any rate it is always direct, simple, and
intelligible, and the colours of the draperies bright and harmonious,
whilst the arcading and wall-lining which fills the lower part of the
walls is all of marble, which has now a rich, warm, but quiet tint,
singularly suitable as a base to the more gorgeous colouring of the
upper part of the walls and domes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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