I was unable to obtain a sight of the Pala d’Oro, as the altar-piece
behind the high altar is called; it is only uncovered on feast days, and
I have never happened to be in Venice when it was visible. I was very
anxious to have seen it, as it is a most magnificent piece of
workmanship in gold and enamel. It was executed in Constantinople, and
brought to Venice in 1102. Some Italian writers have claimed it for
their forefathers as an Italian work; but the documentary evidence of
its Eastern origin is supported by the details of the design and
execution of the earliest portions of the work. M. Durand has published
a very careful description of it in the ‘Annales Archéologiques,’ vol.
xx. He gives a list of no less than one hundred and sixty-nine panels or
figures, in a considerable number of which the accompanying inscriptions
are in Greek characters. The Pala was “restored” in the thirteenth
century and again in the fourteenth, when no doubt considerable
additions were made to it. The painting at the back has fourteen
subjects on a gold ground, and is dated 1345.
Over and over again when at Venice must one go into S. Mark’s, not to
criticize but to admire; and if ever in any building in which the main
object is the study of art, assuredly here one must go for worship also.
I think I never saw an interior so thoroughly religious and
religion-inspiring as this, and it is well, therefore, not lightly to
pass it by as useless for our general purposes. It seems to shew, as
strongly as any one example can, how much awefulness and grandeur of
character even a small building may attain to by the lavish expenditure
of art and precious materials throughout its fabric; for it is to this
that S. Mark’s owes its grandeur, and to this only. There is nothing
imposing either in its size or in its architecture; on the contrary,
they appear to me to be both moderate, and the former rather mean; and
yet this grand display of mosaics upon a gold ground makes the building
appear to be both larger and better than it is, and fully atones for all
other defects. Could we but place one of our cold, bare places of
worship by the side of S. Mark’s, and let the development of Christian
art in the construction of the fabric be ten times as great in our
Northern church as in the Venetian, we may yet rest assured that every
religious mind would turn at once to the latter, and scarce deign to
think of the former as a place of worship at all. If this is so, does it
not point most forcibly to the absolute necessity for the introduction
of more colour in the interior of our buildings, either in their
construction, or afterwards by the hand of the painter? And architects
must remember that this ought all to be within their province as
directors or designers, and therefore that they must not, as now,
venture to design cold shells which may or may not afterwards receive
these necessary and indispensable decorations, but from the very first
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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