Farther on Murano is passed, and a halt made for a visit to the church
of San Donato--once a building of the highest interest and well known to
all readers of Mr. Ruskin’s books. Unfortunately my first visit to this
church was after it had been in part “restored,” in the largest and
worst sense of the word. The old brickwork was being renewed, plastered,
and painted up, till most of its interest had vanished; and now, I fear,
only those who saw San Donato some ten years ago can have any idea of
its architectural value and interest. This was chiefly centred in the
east front, where there is a central apse with a lean-to end to the
aisle on either side. The wall is divided into two stages, by a bold
string-course and double line of chevrons formed by recessing the
brickwork and inserting panels of coloured and carved white marble. The
lower stage is arcaded mainly in red brick, whilst the upper has a wall
deeply recessed behind arcades under the eaves, with delicate
balustrades between the columns which carry the arcades. This upper part
of the building is mainly of buff-coloured bricks, with thin lines of
red to mark the pattern of arches, and it is curious that the light
bricks are much larger than the red.[37] The pavements here are very
fine examples of Opus Alexandrinum, with a more than usual proportion of
black marble, and there is a grand mosaic in the apse, of the B. V. Mary
and Our Lord on a gold ground.
One or two Gothic houses in semi-ruinous condition, and a very fine
fragment of late Byzantine work quite in ruins--the Palazzo da
Mula--remain in Murano, but of these there is such good store in Venice
itself that we may pass them by.
Most visitors, I suppose, go to Murano in order to visit Dr. Salviati’s
glass and mosaic manufactory. He has succeeded in reproducing a material
quite equal to that used in the old mosaics. Still more difficult
feat--he has succeeded also in making glass so like the old Venetian
glass in colour, texture, and design, as to puzzle all ordinary judges.
I cannot sufficiently admire or praise the singular power which Dr.
Salviati has shewn in the education of his men. A party of six or eight
made for me before my eyes, in a few minutes, a tall, delicate, and
richly adorned goblet, in which every part was done by eye and fancy; no
modern accuracy was attempted, and the result was a thoroughly beautiful
and artistic work. All artists know how difficult it is to get a workman
nowadays out of the hard mechanical groove of dull uniformity, and Dr.
Salviati’s success is an encouragement to all of us when we are tempted
to despair of making the attempt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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