There are several other churches to be noticed here. The most
interesting to me after San Michele is that of Sta. Maria del Carmine,
or San Pantaleone (for it seems to rejoice in a double dedication),
which, in some respects, is more akin to our northern Gothic work than
any other Italian church I have as yet described. The plan and all the
details of the interior are exceedingly simple. The nave is divided into
four groining bays, each of which has two arches into the aisles; the
transept takes one bay and the choir one, and there are an aisle and a
row of chapels on either side of the nave, and chapels on the east side
of the transept. The only openings between the arches and the groining
are small circles by way of clerestory, ludicrously small as compared
with the immense space of blank wall below them, which seems to call
loudly for decorative painting. The whole of the interior is executed in
red brick, which has, however, been much daubed with a coloured wash;
its effect is, notwithstanding, very fine and well worthy of imitation.
As in Italian churches generally, the choir is very short as compared to
the length of the nave. The exterior is even better worth examination
than the interior; the design of the west end is an exaggerated example
of the mode of finishing west fronts not uncommon in Italian Gothic; it
is to some extent a sham, and therefore bad, but there is much which is
of value in its detail, as it is even more than usually elaborate; and
apart from the general outline of the mass, which pinnacles and
pilasters cannot redeem from ugliness, there is considerable beauty in
the group of windows and doors arranged so as to rise gradually to the
centre. The cornices are very heavy and elaborate, and the whole front
may be looked at as a masterpiece of terra-cotta and brick architecture.
It is purely Italian in its great breadth and general arrangement, and,
I confess, very far from being to my taste, though I could wish that we
had more often some of the same breadth and simplicity in our own
elevations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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