Probably travellers remember Bologna more by its two leaning towers than
by any other feature. One comes here however, from either side, after
rather a surfeit of this sort of thing. On the one side is Pisa, with
its leaning tower, and on the other we may see them at Rovigo, Ferrara,
and elsewhere. The soil here is generally bad for foundations, I
suppose, and these plain brick towers without any projection at the base
are the most ill-contrived constructions for such foundations that one
can conceive. In this case it is possible to get views of the two towers
which shew an apparently impossible amount of overhanging on the part of
the smaller one, and I confess to a strong preference for walking to
what one may call the windward side of such an erection! There is no
beauty in these towers, their only features being the vast array of
putlog holes in their walls, and the machicolated battlement of the
higher of the two.
Of domestic buildings of the Middle Ages there are not many remains. The
Casa dei Mercanti, though it dates from the end of the fourteenth
century, is not pleasing. The front has two lofty pointed arches on the
ground story, and a canopied Ringhiera of very poor design above. But as
the whole front has been restored, the bricks painted bright red, and
the stonework cleaned and repaired, I am disposed to believe very little
in the antiquity of any of the details. Certainly I found it not worth
sketching, which was the more disappointing as I had heard of it always
as a fine building. The Pepoli Palace has some old brickwork and a
Ghibelline battlement of unusually picturesque outline. The Piazza
Maggiore in front of San Petronio is certainly the best feature in this
not very striking city. As always in Italian towns, it must be visited
early in the day if it is to be seen to advantage. In the morning it is
crowded with fruit and vegetable dealers, sitting under bright-coloured
umbrellas; in the afternoon it is _triste_ and deserted, save by the
cabmen, who pursue the stranger with their importunities. One side of
this piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Publico--a large pile of building
altogether Gothic in its inclosing walls, I fancy, but they have been so
much altered from time to time that not much detail remains. It seems,
however, to have been much like the Castle at Mantua in its character,
with bold machicoulis at the top of the walls, and a well battered-out
base to the whole building. In a tower here there is a window which I
engrave, because it shews well how good an effect may be produced by the
skilful use of the very simplest materials. The combination of stone
with brick adds much to the effect; and though this is in itself a very
small and unimportant work, it appears to me to be exceedingly
suggestive.
[Illustration: BRICK WINDOW--PALAZZO PUBLICO, BOLOGNA.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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