Not very far to the east of Piacenza is Asti, a dull city,
distinguished, however, by some remarkable features in its churches. The
most important of these are the Cathedral and San Secondo. They are
extremely similar in general design: they have naves with short choirs,
transepts, low octagonal vaulted lanterns over the crossing, and apsidal
chapels in front of the transept gables, and at San Secondo to the
several bays of the aisle. Their towers are on the east side of the
transepts. The peculiar feature of their detail is the very elaborate
way in which brick and stone are counterchanged in the jambs and arches
of windows and doorways. The moulded members of a jamb are alternately
of brick and stone, and in each course stone comes above the brick of
the courses below. San Secondo cannot, I think, be earlier than circa
1400, but at first sight looks like a building of 1200. The cathedral is
probably somewhat though not very much earlier. Its plan was evidently
derived from that of the cathedral at Piacenza. Its proportions are bad,
and it is only redeemed by the picturesqueness of some of its details.
Another church has an octagonal campanile; and another, one of sixteen
sides. This is of brick, except the upper stage, which is coursed in
brick and stone. Its sixteen sides have alternately a window and a shaft
running up to the cornice, and in the stage below it there are eight
windows below the shafted sides of the belfry. The composition of this
tower is certainly very good. Another fine lofty tower with bold cornice
and Ghibelline parapet recalls the Veronese towers to mind, and there
are besides not a few remains of mediæval domestic work, so that a day
may be well spent at Asti by an architect.
CHAPTER XII.
“Launce! by mine honesty, welcome to Milan.”
_Two Gentlemen of Verona_, act ii. sc. 5.
Milan: the Cathedral--Sant’Ambrogio--Sant’Eustorgio--Sta. Maria
delle Grazie--Certosa of Chiaravalle--Novara--Vercelli--Monza: the
Cathedral--The Broletto--Sta. Maria in Strada--Como: the
Broletto--The Cathedral.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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