Throughout the interior there is a very remarkable love shewn everywhere
for a moulding which was never used by Italians, but was so much used
among ourselves--the wave-mould. Then, again, all the shafts are
filleted, and the fillet turning off gradually into the round line of
the shaft, produces the same moulding; a fulness and richness are
consequently very noticeable in all the interior, very different indeed
from anything else that I saw in Italy. The solitary blot upon this
otherwise noble work is one for which its architect is in no way
responsible--the cells of the groining are all filled in with painted
imitations of elaborate traceries in brown colour, an abominable device,
which never ceases to offend and annoy the eye more and more every time
it is observed.[72] The window tracery throughout is meagre, confused,
and unmeaning, and the traceries introduced at mid-height most
unsatisfactory; but the glass with which it is filled, though poor and
late in its character, contains much rich colour, and gives the entire
building a very grand and warm tone.
Compared with other foreign churches, there is in this--the largest of
them all--a singular absence of side altars. There are indeed some three
or four; but so great is the prominence given to the high altar in the
choir, that one scarcely thinks of the possibility of the existence of
any others, and has to look about a good deal before discovering where
they are to be found.
In common with so many of the Italian churches the pavements here are
very fine, and impart no small degree of additional magnificence to the
interior.
Many are the works which might be catalogued in this great church, but
I must content myself with noticing one only--the great bronze
candelabrum. This is, I suppose, the most precious work of its kind in
Europe. It was placed in the cathedral in 1557, a date too late for its
execution by some three hundred years. The supports are four winged
dragons, heads downwards, and with tails intertwined. The shaft has
bosses in the centre, and branches out above into a profusion of
branches full of exquisite leafage. This is all conventional in
character, and entirely like thirteenth-century work. In spaces formed
for the purpose and on the bosses are various figures and subjects all
wrought with singular skill, and a lavish profusion of ingenuity which
cannot be too much admired. Among these are the Temptation and the
Expulsion from Paradise, the signs of the zodiac, figures illustrating
architecture and music, and a variety of others.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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