With this building my architectural notes in Milan must end, but I
should advise all students of architecture to include in their visits
one of about half an hour’s drive to the Certosa of Chiaravalle just
outside Milan. The church here has been much modernized, but over the
centre of the crossing still rises a brick lantern and steeple of
singular interest. My engraving will explain what the character of this
work is, better than any words. The construction is singular. Behind the
base of the second stage of the great octagon a spire is constructed
which carries the upper steeple, and the whole of the walls pierced with
the second, third, and fourth series of windows are really only
screen-walls or parapets in front of the spire. The height of the whole
lantern from the ridge to the base of the spire is about ninety feet,
and the effect of the complicated brickwork is not bad. It is somewhat
difficult to say exactly when it was built. The Certosa itself was
founded in 1135, and consecrated in 1228, but my impression is decidedly
that though the whole steeple is built with round arches, it is not
really a work of earlier date than about A.D. 1370 to 1400. The steeple
of San Gottardo in Milan, which also has round arches everywhere, and is
in some other
[Illustration: 60. CERTOSA OF CHIARAVALLE. p. 330.]
respects somewhat similar in detail to this, dates from 1339, and it
would be a great mistake to argue for an earlier date in either case
from the mere use of the round arch. If I recollect right, the low third
stage in height at Chiaravalle is modern.
Milan was on the whole rather disappointing to me in my architectural
capacity, though pleasant enough in every other; and after I had lounged
and driven about, first in one direction and then in another, and had
really enjoyed my last great Italian city very much, finding that little
more was to be done but to eat ices, look at smart carriages on the
Corso, and long for more chance of a clear view of the Alps than the
hazy sultry weather afforded, I made up my mind to leave earlier than I
had originally intended.
No architectural student should turn his feet homeward from Milan
without having first of all visited Vercelli. It is easily reached by
railway, passing on the road Novara, where there was only a few years
back a fine Lombard cathedral, which has unfortunately been lately
supplanted by a modern Italian fabric, even more than usually vapid and
uninteresting, and where there is still an old baptistery so plastered
and painted as to have lost almost all its old interest. The traveller
has therefore to content himself with the views--which become better as
he proceeds--of the snow-capped Alps (including their noblest peak,
Monte Rosa) to the north of the railway, which, in clear weather, are
most glorious in their effect.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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