Detached from the church, and standing at an angle to it, is a simple
campanile of later date (1399), and of four stages in height. The
combination of this eccentrically placed tower with the rest of the
church is very remarkable, and appears to have been simply a caprice.
Its effect certainly does not warrant the sort of admiration which
should lead any modern architect engaged in studying the church to
recommend the copying of the relative positions of it and its
bell-tower. I ought not to forget one feature--the buttress--which is
treated here in quite the French or English fashion, with bold
projection and good steep sloped weatherings instead of in the usual
Italian fashion as a mere pilaster.
North of the nave of the church is a good cloister, on the east side of
which is a fine square chapter-house, divided by groining piers into
nine bays. The original triple entrance to the chapter-house--a door
with window on each side--still remains, and there is a communication
also through a groined sacristy with the north transept. I know few
churches which shew more just sense of the best treatment of a good
Gothic interior than this does. In its original state, when the
brickwork was exposed in its natural colour, the effect was of course
much better than it is now; but the effect is still so good that I may
safely assert that, were the exterior equal to the interior, there would
be few more beautiful churches in Northern Italy.[77]
There is an interesting monument in the south-east chapel, corbelled out
from the wall and decorated with sculpture and painting. In the gable is
the Coronation of the Blessed Virgin, below a figure kneeling before
her, and said to represent the architect of the church, who died in
1246, being Abbat as well as architect. Immediately opposite the church
is a hospital founded by the same cardinal. It has been much altered,
but there are still some ancient portions, which I could not get leave
to see.
From Vercelli we retraced our steps to Milan, and halted no longer than
was necessary before going on to Monza on our way to Como. Here we were
well rewarded and most agreeably surprized. We found a very curious and
good Broletto, a cathedral of fine and elaborate brickwork with a great
west front of marble, and another brick church of most elaborate detail.
The west front of the Duomo is a very fine example of Italian Gothic in
marble; it is divided into five divisions in width, those in the centre
and at the sides being the widest, and is constructed in yellow and dark
grey marbles in alternate courses, the former very deep, the latter
generally shallow, but varying without much rule.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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