The door and windows in the lower stage have been interpolated, and
besides this there is a strangely ugly window above them, about
which--as this is the last of its class we shall see--I wish to say a
word. In starting on a continental journey, between London and Croydon
on the South-Eastern Railway you used to pass under several great
semi-circular arched bridges. When first built, the engineer chose, in
order to gratify some odd fancy, to prop these up by two piers of
brickwork, dividing the arch into three, and putting the whole in great
jeopardy. It is curious that this singularly supported and divided arch
finds a counterpart in almost every large church in the North of Italy.
It was the one great idea of the Renaissance builders, and, until they
had taken out one of the old windows and inserted in its place one of
these hideous contrivances, they were never satisfied. In Venice every
church, even the noble church of the Frari, has them, and I believe
scarcely a large church in the North of Italy is without at least this
one evidence of the delicacy of taste which characterizes the
Renaissance age!
The skill which is shewn in making and fitting together brickwork such
as that in the front of this church is very great indeed, but, after
all, I fear, rather mistaken, for the effect is most unsatisfactory, and
every one must see that throughout the façade there is an evident
attempt to satisfy the eye by the exceedingly elaborate character of the
detail, rather than by the fitness of the thing itself, or by the beauty
of the proportions. The insufficiency of the windows for the extent of
wall is an obvious fault, and not less so is the fact which I am almost
tired of referring to, that the whole front is sham and designed without
any reference whatever to the wants of the building, to which it forms
the street-front.
In the evening we left Monza for Camerlata, a village within about a
mile of Como, availing ourselves again of the Milan and Como railway.
The Camerlata station was soon reached, and after some little delay we
found ourselves ensconced in one of those long omnibuses so fashionable
in Italy, and driving down a long hill, planted on either side with
trees, towards Como. Above us, to the right and to the left, we could
see, by the bright moonlight, the shapes of the mountains which hem in
this arm of the fairest of lakes; whilst just above us, proudly perched
upon a crag, were the ruins of a castle, which lent, when we saw it by
daylight, an additional charm to the otherwise beautiful view.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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