The small village of Realp is soon reached, and then the ascent begins;
this is rather stiff, and it has taken us, when we reach the summit,
just four hours and a half of hard walking from Hospenthal. We found
dinner going on at the little hostelry at the top, and, after partaking
of it, started again to ascend the Furca-Horn, a mountain rising above
the summit of the pass, and, as we had been told, quite worth the
trouble of the ascent. There was no kind of path, and in places the
mountain-side was so steep that I began to think it was no place for
ladies to scramble up; however, they thought otherwise, and after divers
tumbles in the snow, and surmounting rather formidable-looking
obstacles, we reached the summit at last, and, sitting down on the edge
of a great rock, spent a long time in enjoying the glorious view.
Just under us was the vast glacier of the Rhone, and then beyond it we
looked down the long valley of the same river until its shape was
obscured by mist, and traced the path by which we had walked in a
previous journey up the steep Meyenwand to the Grimsel. Immediately in
front of us were the vast peaked mass of the Schreckhorn, the whole
course of the glaciers of the Aar, and the peaks of the
Finster-Aarhorn, the Jungfrau, and the Mönch; above our heads rose the
Galenstock, and opposite us the Mutthorn and Monte Fiudo; whilst the
summit of Monte Rosa, discerned with difficulty among a marvellous array
of distant peaks, completed one of the finest views of snow-covered
mountains which it has ever been my good fortune to behold.
Long time did we keep our elevated seats, scanning again and again the
glorious panorama, and at last, most unwillingly, commenced the descent;
this was more difficult, though much more speedy, than the ascent, as
the side of the mountain was both steep and slippery. We reached the
summit of the pass, itself about eight thousand three hundred feet above
the sea, in little more than an hour, the ascent to the Horn having
occupied about two hours and a half; and here we found our French
friends of the previous evening, who had in vain endeavoured to follow
us in our ascent, but had been one and all obliged to give up the
attempt.
Late at night we all went out again to look at the most glorious
moonlight effect it is possible to imagine; the peaks of the mountains
and the vast fields of snow or glacier lighted up by the bright light of
the moon had a charm about them peculiarly fascinating.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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