At Ferrara, we see another and very different design in the grand front
to the cathedral, which, save that it is entirely and shamelessly a sham
front, might vie even with that of a Northern cathedral in beauty,
intricacy, and richness of character; but this design is not really
very Italian in style, and is a solitary example. When an Englishman
sees the tympanum of the principal doorway of such a church filled with
a sculpture of S. George and the Dragon, he may be pardoned for
recollecting that our royal family have sprung from the same stock as
the D’Estes, once Lords of Ferrara, the front of whose cathedral is
almost the finest in Italy.
Other portions of Italian churches are even less satisfactory than their
façades. I have already explained that the clerestory is rarely lighted
by anything more elaborate than a succession of circular windows of
small size. The church of Sta. Anastasia, Verona, gives us the best
example of these, the windows there being of brick, filled in with very
good early plate tracery in stone. The east end is often more
picturesque than the west; and that of the church of San Fermo Maggiore,
Verona, affords a good example. The east ends of the churches of the
Frari and SS. Giovanni e Paolo, at Venice, are perhaps the two finest
examples of this portion of the building to be seen in Italy, and are
worthy of very high praise.
If we descend from generals to details, we shall find much more to
admire, and altogether much more to interest us. The doorways and the
porches, which protect without concealing them, are often especially
beautiful. I have already mentioned the doorways of Sta. Anastasia and
San Zenone at Verona, of S. Mark’s, Venice, the cathedral at Modena, and
the north porch of Sta. Maria Maggiore, at Bergamo, all of which are
full of beauty and full of national character. Another favourite and
beautiful type is that of the porch on the north side of San Fermo, at
Verona, which is arched on each face, and roofed with a flat-pitched
roof, gabled both ways. In the doorways, inclosed within these porches,
we shall hardly find so much to admire, and must not expect anything
like our own or the great French examples. Generally the opening is
square-headed, with a lintel often formed by an ingenious dovetailing of
stone together,[86] and the mouldings of the jambs are too often
continuous and very small and badly marked in their sections.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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