We went first into the cloister on the north side of the nave. The
arches are very small, and of brick, supported on coupled shafts of red
Veronese marble, which have marble caps and bases, and rest on a dwarf
wall of stone capped with a thin course of marble. The arch bricks are
of a rich red colour, and contrast well with the brickwork of the
ordinary kind above them; they are used without any kind of moulding or
ornament--and yet I doubt whether I have ever seen a more lovely
cloister than this. The arcades on the north and south sides have round
arches; those on the east and west are pointed; and on the north is a
projecting arcade of the same detail, which once formed the lavatory.
The whole of this cloister is in a very sad state of filth, neglected
and unused, and will, I fear, ere long become ruinous.[21]
From the cloister you enter by a side door into the north aisle of the
choir; much better, however, would it always be to enter from the west,
for it is there, when standing at the top of the flight of ten or
twelve steps which leads down from the door to the floor of the nave,
looking down the great length of the church, scanning its singular
perspective of timber roofing, the great height and simplicity of its
walls, and the mysterious view down into the crypt under the choir
through the recently opened arches, that one feels most deeply the great
and religious effect of the church. To an eye used to northern Gothic
there is something very new in such a building. Its shape, its material,
its arrangement, are all unlike what an English eye is used to, but I
cannot say that I paused for an instant in doubt as to whether I might
really admire or not; for I felt at once how very good the work was, not
only in its general effect, but as much in the treatment of the details,
in its colour, and in its arrangement.
The general plan is very simple--a great parallelogram, divided into a
nave of vast width with northern and southern aisles; the aisles
terminated with square east ends, the choir with an apse of five bays,
which is, however, of later date than the rest of the church. The chief
singularity in the design is the division of the piers of the main
arcades into primary and secondary--the first being large heavy piers
supporting great arches spanning the nave and aisles, which are finished
in a line with the top of the walls; and the latter more delicate
circular marble columns of very Classical character, with finely carved
capitals, and looking almost too slight to support the vast height of
clerestory wall which towers up above the arcade which they carry. The
timber roof, or ceiling, is curious; the framing is all concealed, with
the exception of the collar-beams, which connect the points of the
trefoil which forms the internal line of ceiling. This trefoil outline
is all boarded, divided into panels, and painted. The effect of this
great length of panelled roofing, partly concealed by the great arches
which
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