Only one portion of the church is decorated upon a regular system; this
is the eastern part of the choir and the apse, which has part of its
walls and its groining very elaborately painted, though with but little
gold; the groining ribs are richly coloured, and on each side of them is
a wide border, generally subdivided into regular geometrical figures,
and the spaces between these borders are painted blue and powdered with
gold stars. In the south aisle is an altar under a baldachin, supported
at the angles by four clustered shafts knotted together in mid height--a
capricious custom of which Italians seem to have been especially fond,
and the only excuse for which, so far as I can see, is that it proves
that all the shafts were cut out of one block, and therefore of more
value than four plain detached shafts cut out of separate blocks could
be. There is perhaps, also, a relief to the mind, after looking at a
long series of similar shafts, to come at last upon some one or two
marked by capricious singularity such as this. Be this, however, as it
may, the eye certainly always feels inclined to admire them, though the
reason is never quite satisfied; and perhaps some better excuse does
exist for their use than I have as yet been able to discover. It is
probable that these columns belonged originally to the baldachin over
the high altar. The canopy which they now support is not old.
The vestry on the north side of the choir is worth a visit, if only for
the sake of its prettily panelled and painted ceiling. Here the panels
are very small, and left in the natural colour of the pine, and the ribs
are decorated with white, red, and black. There is also in this room a
very good fourteenth-century marble cistern and lavatory under an arch
in the wall; and lastly, in the wardrobes, among many things not worth
seeing, a finely embroidered bishop’s mitre of the twelfth century,
wrought in gold on linen. In front is a figure of Our Lord, at the back
one of the Blessed Virgin, with emblems of two Evangelists on each, and
a band below with figures of the Apostles, the stoles also being adorned
with figures.
The arrangement of the choir shows the common Italian plan of stalls
round the apse behind the altar. They are of early Renaissance
character, with some relic of Gothic feeling in the traceries of the
backs and elbows. There is also a good example of a square choir
lectern, with a large base to contain books, and a revolving gabled
desk.
Until the beginning of this century, there were only two altars in this
church, one in the choir the other in the crypt. The verger told me that
his father remembered the other altars being brought from a suppressed
church, and erected here.
The campanile is well seen from the cloister, where it composes finely
with the coursed walls of the church, and the many-shafted arcades of
the cloister. It is a lofty square tower of several stages, with small
pinnacles, and a low circular brick spire crowning it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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