Of course no one goes to Verona without thinking of Romeo and Juliet. I
fear, however, that when I was shown the Casa de’ Cappelletti, a small
inn in a narrow street, and asked to connect it in any way for the
future with the creation of Shakespeare’s brain, my fancy refused to be
sufficiently lively to perform the required feat. The simple fact is
that, real relics not existing, the good people of Verona have wisely
met the demand which Shakespeare has created, and have discovered a tomb
for Juliet, and other reminiscences of the fair Veronese, which I dare
say satisfy very well the majority of travellers.
At Verona, as in the other towns through which we passed in Italy, we
were quite astonished at the number of misshapen dwarfs that we saw; we
could not account for this at first, but I suppose it is because
children, until they can walk, are tied up in rolls of linen so stiffly
as to deprive them of all power of motion. The only wonder is how any of
these unfortunate children ever manage to walk at all.
In the courts of the houses at Verona there are generally wells, with
ingeniously contrived arrangements for enabling the occupants of the
various surrounding houses and balconies to let down their buckets for
water without themselves going down to the wells. There are guide-ropes
to the well from each angle of the courts round which the houses are
usually built, along which the buckets run, suspended by rings and held
by ropes from the balconies, until they reach the iron-work over the
well, and then fall perpendicularly down to the water.
I have visited Verona many times, and each visit seems to me to give
greater pleasure than the last. I fear I have given but a faint idea of
the indescribable charm which it has to all who are fond of early art.
There is little which one can compare with the situation and
surroundings of such cities as Venice and Florence, and yet I suppose
most travellers would agree with me in reckoning the interest of these
three towns as not far from equal, and greater in very many ways than
that of any other Italian cities.
On this first journey we were driven away by bad weather which, when it
sets in, generally continues for several days, and we left, inwardly
resolving that no long time should elapse before we returned--a
resolution which has been abundantly and often fulfilled--and as the
waiter at our hotel honestly told us that we should be very likely to
find fine weather at Padua, whither we were next to journey, we took his
advice, and then, getting into an omnibus contrived to hold thirty
persons, and I should say at least twenty feet long, with four horses
harnessed with long drawn-out traces to increase the already prodigious
length, we were soon at the terminus of the Verona and Venice railway.
CHAPTER VII.
“‘And whither journeying?--‘To the holy shrine
Of Saint Antonio in the city of Padua.’”
_Rogers._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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