Scaligers, and of the nave of Sta. Anastasia, still, though five
centuries have passed with all their storms about their heads, fresh and
beautiful as ever, fit objects of veneration for the artist in all ages!
A disciple, therefore, of the last of these two schools, I stayed not
longer at Vicenza than was necessary to satisfy myself of the truth of
the charges against Palladio’s work there, and to note the few, but
interesting, mediæval remains. The situation of the city is beautiful.
Near it to the north are mountain ranges, and where these descend into
the plains there are smaller hills covered everywhere with luxurious
vegetation. The first view of it is also very fine. In front is the old
brick tower at the Porta di Castello, with its deep brick machicoulis
sloping boldly outwards, and finished with a square battlement under a
flat roof. Beyond this are seen the steeples of the city, and highest
among them the Torre dell’ Orologio, a tall slender brick tower in the
Piazza dei Signori, in the centre of the town. The most important Gothic
churches are the Cathedral, San Lorenzo, and Santa Corona. They seem all
to be in very much the same style--one derived no doubt from Venice, as
we shall see when we arrive there. The plans usually are of this kind.
The bays of the nave are square in plan, those of the aisles oblong in
the direction of the length of the church, the choirs apsidal, and the
chapels on each side of them also apsidal, but with an equal number of
sides so that there is an angle in the centre. The transepts are
square-ended, the sacristy at the end of one of them, and the tower at
the side of the chancel aisles. The Cathedral departs from the type of
plan just mentioned, but is, I think, the only exception to the rule. It
has a very wide nave without aisles some 55 or 60 feet in the clear, but
it has been so much repaired and altered that it is now very
uninteresting. Good effect is obtained by the very great elevation of
the altar which is raised above a crypt, the entrance to which is by
flights of steps on each side of the steps which lead up to the choir.
The exterior is mainly of brick save at the west end, which has an
arcade of stone with a doorway in the centre division.
[Illustration: 19. PORTA DI CASTELLO. VICENZA. p. 128.]
This kind of west front is repeated in the more interesting church of
San Lorenzo, which is finished with one vast gable in front of nave and
aisles, and has for its lower stage an arcade of seven divisions, with a
fine pointed doorway occupying the three central arches. This part of
the front is mainly of stone, with enriched members round the arches in
brick, and it is divided from the upper stage by a corbel-table. The
gable is of brick with a large stone circular window in the centre, and
five smaller circular windows following the line of the flat gable which
crowns the whole. I was not much impressed by this design, the only
virtue of which is a certain amount of simplicity and breadth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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