British Quarterly Review, American Edition, Vol. LIII: January and April, 1871Various
History
British Quarterly Review, American Edition, Vol. LIII: January and April, 1871
Various
English periodicals
be overpowered by the crowd of playgoers who delight in such spectacles.
A gangrene of selfish and demoralising pleasure is now eating into the
heart of this country; and we fear the social malady will not be checked
save by the advent of some terrible national calamity--let us hope not
so terrible as that by which our neighbour France is now being purged as
by fire.
Before quitting the lighter and gossipy items to be found in these
letters, let us say a word or two about the rich Court costumes of the
period. We need not speak of the dresses of the ladies; for although the
fashion of those dresses has changed, indeed is ceaselessly changing, in
richness and costliness female attire at the present time is quite on a
par with what it was when George the Second was king. But a notable
change has taken place in the full dress of the men. Probably only a
minority of our readers can remember the time when colour disappeared
from the evening costume of gentlemen: it is nearly forty years since
coloured coats, with white or coloured silk or velvet waistcoats
vanished from the private dinner-party and ball-room--though the taste
for colour is now reviving. Warren, in _Ten Thousand a Year_, dresses
his hero Gammon for the evening in blue coat with metal buttons, white
waistcoat, and black trousers--and such was a quiet evening dress of
that time. In the long interval since then, there has been a monotonous
reign of simple black cloth. The change in the Court or gala dress has
been still more striking. Apropos of this change, a philosophic writer
has remarked, that whenever any class abandons its distinctive costume,
it is a sign of decadence and coming extinction. There is some truth in
the remark, but it is partial truth only. It ignores the fact that the
peculiar source of distinction for each class, and especially with the
nobility, who are or ought to be the leaders of the nation, varies from
age to age with the spirit of the times. It might as well be said that
our nobility verged on extinction three centuries ago, when they ceased
to wear mail and to lead their retainers to the field. No doubt the
French Revolution, with its levelling doctrines, and the principle of
social equality (not new in this country), tended to abolish the
'bravery' of dress previously distinctive of the nobility; but the
change was far more due to the gravity of the times, the sober spirit
natural during a most critical period of the country, and of the economy
rendered necessary throughout the community at large by the heavy costs
of the great war with France. Indeed, the fact that a corresponding
change took place in the gala dress of the middle classes serves to show
that there was nothing exceptional or peculiar in the diminished finery
of the aristocratic costume. All classes alike felt the sobering
influence of the time, and then, as in all such cases, a corresponding
change took place in costume.
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