British Quarterly Review, American Edition, Vol. LIV: July and October, 1871Various
History
British Quarterly Review, American Edition, Vol. LIV: July and October, 1871
Various
English periodicals
Mr. Whymper's first escalade in the Alps was the ascent of Mont
Pelvoux in Dauphiné, the account of which is reprinted from 'Peaks,
Passes, and Glaciers.' Sundry other subordinate, and yet novel and
arduous ascents are recounted; with interspersed dissertations on
Alpine climbing, on glaciers, on mountain lakes, &c., with criticisms
on the erosion theories of Professors Tyndall and Ramsay. But the
book, as we have said, is a history of the conquest of the Matterhorn.
Between the years 1861-1865, Mr. Whymper made seven unsuccessful
attempts to ascend the Matterhorn--four or five attempts having also
been made by others; two by Professor Tyndall in 1860 and 1862, who,
on the latter occasion, reached within 600 feet of the summit. These
attempts were made on the south-west ridge. Mr. Whymper's successful
attempt was made on the east face, which, from the Gorner Grat, is so
familiar to tourists, and looks like the side of an obelisk; its
profile, however, shows the angle to be less than 45°, and the ascent
is comparatively easy. Some of the most experienced guides had given
up the Matterhorn as inaccessible. Almer decidedly declined it.
'Anything but the Matterhorn,' said he, thinking it hopeless. The two
Cassels proved treacherous, and finessed with Mr. Whymper, while
completing arrangements with Signor Giordano, who started up the
south-west side from Breil, on July 11, 1865. On the 12th, Mr. Whymper
crossed the St. Theodule, for Zermatt, having been joined by Lord
Francis Douglas and Peter Taugwalder the younger; at Zermatt he found
Michael Croz, who had been engaged by the Rev. Charles Hudson and his
friend, Mr. Hadow, to attempt the Matterhorn. The two parties united,
and started on the 13th at half-past five, four tourists and four
guides; by twelve o'clock they had easily ascended 11,000 feet; they
halted for the day, and pitched their tent. At 9.55 on the 14th they
had reached the height of 14,000 feet, at the base of what, from the
Riffell, seems the overhanging summit. They then crossed the ridge to
the northern side, the general slope of the mountain being less than
40°. Only one part, of about 400 feet, was really difficult; it was
surmounted, and 200 feet of easy snow brought them to the summit at
1.40. The party from Breil had been four days on the mountain; they
were seen at an immense distance below; the shouts of Mr. Whymper's
party, and some stones which they rolled down to attract attention,
frightened them. 'The Italians turned and fled,' but whether from
superstition, as Mr. Whymper implies, or from fear of the stone
avalanche, so ominously directed upon them, we are not told. The fatal
accident on the descent, when five out of the eight perished--three
travellers and two guides--seems, like the accident on the Col du
Géant two or three years before, to have been caused by no special
difficulty. Mr. Hadow's foot slipped; he fell against one of the
guides, and knocked him down; the party was roped together, and but
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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