Buenos Ayres and the Provinces of the Rio de La Plata: Their Present State, Trade, and DebtParish, Woodbine, Sir
History
Buenos Ayres and the Provinces of the Rio de La Plata: Their Present State, Trade, and Debt
Parish, Woodbine, Sir
Argentina -- Description and travel; Argentina -- History
By the post-road it is 226 leagues distant from Buenos Ayres, and 84
from Mendoza; and it is the only place that exceeds the description
of a straggling village throughout the whole distance. The road which
runs through it has been often described by those who have crossed
the pampas in the last twenty years, and they have left little to say
about it. By all accounts it seems to be a most uninteresting one;
and the grand object, therefore, is to get over it with the greatest
possible expedition. The more common mode of performing the journey is
on horseback; but this is necessarily attended with great fatigue, and
he must have an iron constitution who attempts it; but if he can live
upon meat yet warm with life, or barely toasted over a gaucho fire,
dispense with bread, drink brackish water, and sleep as a luxury upon
the ground in the open air, in spite of bugs as big as beetles, which
will suck him like vampires, his saddle for a pillow, and the sky for
his covering, and with such fare gallop a hundred miles a day, he may,
barring accidents, reach Mendoza in about ten days. He will find no
temptation to loiter on the way, though much to make him wish to reach
his journey's end.
There are post-houses, or stations, along the whole line of road,
where relays of horses may be had; wretched animals in general, to
all appearance, though the work they will sometimes do is almost
incredible, and that of course entirely upon green food; it is true
their gaucho riders never spare them, and their tremendous spurs,
reeking with blood when they dismount, but too cruelly indicate in
general the goad which has urged them on. Unlike the Arab or the
Cossack, the gaucho seems to have no kind feeling whatever for his
horse; the intrinsic value of the animal being of no importance, if he
drops on the way his rider cares not, he lassoes and mounts another
beast, and abandons the exhausted one to the condors and vultures,
always on the look-out for such a chance, and which will tear the flesh
from the poor brute's bones as soon as they find he has not strength
enough left to shake or kick them off. The mares lead a better life,
being kept entirely for breeding; and custom is so strong that no
consideration would induce a gaucho to mount one. The pampa Indians
have the same feeling, but they keep them for food as well as breeding;
mare's flesh by them is preferred to all other, indeed it is their
ordinary food.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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