Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
Paray-le Monial's church is a splendid and typical example of the
Clunisian school of Burgundian architecture, about contemporary
with the Cathedral of Autun. In fact, you have only to create, in
imagination, a longer nave, transeptal towers, a second transept, and
flying buttresses, to form a very good idea of the appearance of Cluny
abbey in the middle ages.
From the eastern end you get the typical Burgundian effect of a series
of apsidal chapels and collaterals, lifting the eye, stage by stage,
up to the central clock tower, and thus conveying an impression of
dependent solidity unique in architecture, and quite symbolical of
Burgundian character. The apsidal chapels are buttressed by engaged
columns, and lightened by a string, ornamented with a billet, run right
round, to form the drip-stones and the abaci of the capitals, some of
which are very beautiful.
'Tis sad that Cluny's fair daughter is content to keep such ill
company. The approach to, and view of, the church from the north, is
almost completely blocked out by hideous booths filled with tawdry
trinkets, by a "Diorama Musée," and other mean erections, which should
be ruthlessly swept away by the authorities. Visitors may be annoyed,
too, as we were, by the attentions of an imbecile woman, employed by
the hangers-on of the church, to fetch water and run errands for them.
She looked over my shoulder diligently while I took notes, and only
replied with a wild stare, and a "Rien, rien," to my request to know
what I could do for her. A few yards further on, we came upon the
following:--
_Apparition of the Sacred Heart to Blessed Margaret Mary Alacocque._
_The Nusstree and Garden of the Visitation_
_Figures in natural size,_
_Entrance ... Centimes._[110]
On reading this effusion, our first impression was, that there must
be some mental affinity between the dreadful woman who had just been
jibbering at us, and the promoters of this novel entertainment; until
we realized that the wax-works were merely another catch-penny, aimed
at pilgrims' pockets--the invitation I had just read being no more
than a weak attempt to rope in an occasional English enthusiast. The
discovery, not far off, of a similar legend, written in bad German,
revealed the origin of the "Nusstree." It is curious how seldom French
attempts to break out publicly into the English tongue, meet with any
degree of success. From the "High Life Tailor" of Parisian boulevards,
to the "Nusstree" of Paray-le Monial, it is always the same story;
one English word is as good as another to a Frenchman who understands
neither.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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