Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
While I was in St. Philibert, my wife was sketching and writing in the
sunny street outside. I have purloined the following from her notebook.
[Illustration: ·STREET IN TOURNUS·]
"When I think of Tournus, there comes to my mind the picture of a dear
little street bathed in warm afternoon sunlight. On my left, as I sit,
pencil in hand, is the west front of the Cathedral, and in front of me,
a row of little, low, whitewashed cottages line the street. Above the
last cottage there rises a heavy gable, thick, and white, and solid,
pierced only by one little grated window. This gable is a fragment of
the old abbey, and the arched grating is the window of the refectory
used by the monks. There are small shops and more cottages on my right.
The street slopes downhill, and ends in a little, round, white tower,
with a round, brown, pointed hat. It is the sort of tower that one
longs to get round the other side of, or, best of all, into. A great,
warm, purple shadow crosses the street in front of me, and creeps a
little way up the white cottages opposite. It leaves a piece of wall in
brilliant, dazzling sun, and then begins again in a jagged, purple lace
fringe, under the heavy frieze of vine-leaves over the doors.
"An old lady, in white cap and woolly shawl, walks out of a cottage,
and into my sketch. The little boys round me, with best striped Sunday
socks, and mouths full of sweets, suddenly become eager and interested,
whereas before they were only curious.
"Hey! La gran'mère!" they whisper excitedly; and a discussion ensues
as to whose grandmother it is. There must be heaps of grandmothers in
Tournus, and I have only shown her back view disappearing round the
little white tower. And, because of the human interest with which my
picture is now endowed, the crowd of little boys becomes quite twice as
large."
* * * * *
Wandering to-day through the quiet, sleepy, but by no means
poverty-stricken streets of Tournus, one can easily forget the
condition of awful misery to which this part of Burgundy was reduced
at the close of the tenth and the beginning of the eleventh centuries,
when the old church of St. Philibert was in course of construction. The
horrors of that period--when the faithful, eagerly awaiting the second
coming of Christ, had, as they thought, ocular demonstration that the
end of all mankind was at hand--have been best depicted for us by that
strange figure, the priest, Raoul Glaber.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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