Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
But we, who pass our days in London, soon weary of other cities, even
though they be ancient and French; besides, we wanted to see something
of the environs of Dijon; so a fine afternoon found us cycling along
the five kilometres of flat yet attractive road that leads by the
Canal de Bourgogne to Plombières, in the valley of the Ouche. There
was music all the way; the breeze that whispered to the "paint-brush"
poplars, and rustled in the reeds and grasses of the bank; the song
of the grasshoppers, the "sound of waters shaken" where they curled
foaming through the lock gates. We had beauty with us, too; all the
mature beauty of a bright autumn day, as we glided beside the still
water, between waving grasses and lichen-gilded trunks. On our left
were golden vineyards, and, beneath them, rose-embowered cottages and
jagged quarries where brawny quarrymen were dealing mighty, swinging
strokes that echoed through the valley. To our right were the terraced
hills of Talant, and ahead the tower of Plombières church, high above
the village roofs. We passed white-hooded peasants--ample women with
genuine, solid bodies, ambling homeward from the markets of Dijon,
and black-bloused peasants, who, blessed with a patience that was
never given to us, were "soaking an indefinite bait in an indifferent
stream;" we passed blazing bonfires by the side of the road, whereon
girls were heaping all the grasses they had cut during a busy day with
the sickle. And when we got there, we found the mairie besieged by
women in white dresses and men in black coats. There was a wedding; and
couples were whirling in the Salle de Bal.
That Talant I spoke of, on the hill, is another spot to make for
between tea and dinner; if only for the views it gives you down over
the City of Dijon and the Valley of the Ouche. From the village green,
shaded with ancient walnut trees, between which the children play with
their dappled goats, there lie before you, across the willow-fringed
silver streak that is the Canal de Bourgogne, the hills of the Côte
d'Or, now shrouded in the purple mists of evening. Southward, looming
through the red smoke-wreaths, that curl upwards from its factories,
rise the towered palace, and the spires of the ducal city. Below,
among the vines and fruit trees, beside the red gravel pit in the grey
cemetery, the flames of the peasants' fires, flashing in lines, like
the camp fires of a beleaguered town, are deepening with an opalesque
veil of floating vapour the gathering mysteries of the night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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