Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
Each bay of the triforium is divided, as usual, into three round-headed
arches--of which two are blind and the centre one pierced--with fluted,
or zig-zagged pilasters between them. In the chapel of St. Léger are
two quite interesting fifteenth century frescoes of the raising of
Lazarus, and the stoning of Stephen--both, probably, by a painter of
the Flemish school. The former picture, though mutilated and faded, is
still quite realistic; too much so, in a sense; for the bystanders are
so interested in the miracle that they have elbowed the Christ quite
to one side of the picture. Martha is prominent, in the conventional
attitude, with her handkerchief to her nose. "Jam Foetet."
[Illustration: PORCH OF EGLISE NOTRE DAME--BEAUNE
_Facing page 232_]
But Notre Dame, though good, is not the best of Beaune. The church must
yield to the Hôtel Dieu. History, or, at any rate, my history, does
not relate how Nicholas Rolin, the Chancellor of Philippe le Bon, came
to erect at a little fifth-rate town, such as is Beaune, a hospital
unrivalled in all France; yet such is the fact. I do not even know why
he built one at all, unless old Louis XI.'s mot be true--that he had
"made enough poor to necessitate building a hospital to keep them in."
But, there it is, an eighth wonder of the world; beautiful, from the
crest on the gable to the knocker on the door.
This Hôtel Dieu, seen on a grey day or a blue one, is absolutely
harmonious and satisfying. Whether you follow the length of soft,
yellow, brown wall, the blue-grey expanse of the high-pitched roof, the
delicate flêche, or the starry, gabled hood over the entrance, your eye
feasts upon a poem in form and colour; you feel at once the intense
delight of looking upon a work of art that could not have been better
done. But you will stay longest before the porch, the most daring and
most completely successful that exists.
The entrance is beneath a flattened arch, through a panelled door
with a beautiful forged-iron knocker and alms-box; all protected by a
glorious three-gabled hood, crocketed and pinnacled, and built into the
main wall, from which it projects without visible support. The pendants
have angels, bearing shields, with the arms of Nicholas Rolin and his
wife. The hood is slated in grey, as is the roof, and the blue vault
beneath is starred with golden stars, symbolizing the little heaven
within. Upon the blue tympanum is written in gold letters, "Hostel
Dieu, 1443." All these blues and golds harmonise perfectly with the
great crested roof, whether in its more sombre, grey mood, or when the
richer purples come leaping from it at the call of the sun, to play
about the sides of the dormers, or among the shadows of the flagged
pinnacles above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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