Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
This chapel of the normal school, as it now is, was once the southern
limb of the great transept. With the tower of the Eau Bénite, the
smaller tower of the Horloge, and the Chapelle Bourbon, it is the sole
remaining relic of the church itself. Until after 1823, the transept
was open to the wind and rain, which threatened ruin to the fabric. It
was decided, therefore to close the gaping arches of the collateral
on the east and west, and to build a wall on the north side. The
immense height of the transept, emphasized by the vaulting shafts,
is made more striking by the small space within which it is viewed,
and the blind gallery and clerestory, with their arcades, and coupled,
engaged columns, and fluted pilasters, enable one to break through, in
imagination, that northern wall, and get a realistic glance, east and
west, into the sanctuary, and down the five aisles of the church as it
was.
The two chapels remaining in the transept, are those of St. Martial and
St. Stephen. The former, half domed and lighted by three windows, is
similar in style to the original apsidal chapels; that of St. Stephen
is fine Gothic work of the first half of the fourteenth century. Here
was buried Pierre de Chastelux, abbot from 1322 to 1343, who bought
the Palais des Thermes, at Paris, where Jean de Bourbon, a century
later, was to commence the Hotel de Cluny. Here, too, was buried, in
the middle of the chapel, Jacques d'Amboise (1480-1510), the successor
of Jean de Bourbon, and the completer of the Palais Abbatial, here at
Cluny, and of the Hotel de Cluny at Paris. The brickwork of the south
wall of the transept still shows the position of the two doors, one for
ordinary use, and one processional gateway, leading into the cloisters.
The most important remaining building is the Chapelle Bourbon, which
was added to the south end of the smaller (eastern) transept by Abbot
Jean de Bourbon (1456-1480), who had his own private oratory here,
whence he could assist, through an aperture in the wall, at the
ceremonies before the great altar in the sanctuary. Enough remains
of the decoration of the chapel to show, at a glance, that it was a
good example of late Gothic art. Around it were ranged, on a series
of sculptured corbels or consoles, the heads of fifteen prophets,
painted in colours. They are not lacking in expression, but are
clumsy and heavy. These busts served as supports for fifteen stone
statues, those of St. Paul, the Virgin Mary, John the Baptist, and the
twelve Apostles, all of which have disappeared, no one knows whither.
The guide told us that one of these statues, that of Christ, was
in gold, and all the others in silver; a statement which, if it be
true, accounts sufficiently for their disappearance. The only thing
of interest remaining in the grounds of the école normale is the
thirteenth-century bake-house, close to the Tour du Moulin, by the
river wall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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