Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
But the most interesting of all are some twelfth century capitals from
the ambulatory of St. Hugues' church. All of these, though showing the
naiveté of treatment characteristic of early Gothic art, are carved
with wonderful freedom, vigour, and sincerity. Figures, foliage, fruit,
and animals are all realistically produced, and grouped with a fine
sense of design and decorative effect. So strong are they, that the
Gothic capitals in the collection look weak beside them. The best of
them represents God driving a terrified Adam and Eve from the garden of
Eden. Eve is hiding behind Adam, who is draped in fig leaves. Another
shows the sacrifice of Abraham at the moment when he is interrupted
by the angel; another the creation of the world; and another has
figures of musicians, playing various instruments, sculptured from
elliptical medallions. More of these capitals would probably have been
preserved, had the church been demolished with less fracas; but the
revolutionaries chose the easier way, which was to blow it to pieces
with bombs; consequently the capitals, falling from so great a height,
were nearly all destroyed.
[Illustration: Ornament; Pascal Lamb; twelfth century]
Among other notable things is a frieze from a twelfth century house,
and a delicious cobbler's sign, of the same period, showing the man
hard at work at his bench, assisted by his wife holding a little pot in
both hands, while, beside them, a fiddler passes the time in harmony.
There is also a charming Pascal Lamb, endowed with a seeing eye and
a cloven fore-foot, which, turned upwards, balances a Greek cross.
Another remarkable stone is that known as the "Belle Pierre," so named
from the street in which it was found.[92] It represents two knights
tilting, and a bearded man riding upon a strange beast.
Upstairs is a picture gallery containing old views of the Abbey, and a
number of other things worth seeing, one of the most notable being a
wooden chest of the fifteenth century, banded with iron, in which were
kept the famous Rouleaux de Cluny, archives that disappeared during the
Revolution. No official catalogue is published, so far as I am aware;
but those who desire fuller information than I have given here, can
find it in M. Penjon's book.
The Hotel de Ville is the eastern-most building of the two forming
the Abbot's palace. It was built by Jacques d'Amboise, in the early
part of the seventeenth century, and, during the period of the Abbés
Commendataires, was the official residence of the grand prior. It
has been so much altered within as scarcely to be worth a visit,
but the exterior, though somewhat mutilated, retains much of its
original charm. At the west entrance is a beautiful little tower, in
transitional style, with a late Gothic arch, and cupids and foliage
sculptured on the spandrils and the tympanum.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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