Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South BurgundyAllen, Percy
History
Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy
Allen, Percy
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel
"In the same way," says M. Perrault-Dabot, "the type of woman that one
still meets to-day, at Cluny, recalls to us the shadowy grace and the
warm suavity of Prudhon's talent. Cluny belongs to that region of our
province where the massy heads and highly-coloured complexions that
distinguish the mountain-dweller, disappear, to give place to subtler,
slighter forms, and to faces of an exquisite pallor. It is not that
perfect beauty in which every feature is regular; but it is beauty in
its most suave and touching form."
We were the more disappointed, because, though we had not expected to
find in Cluny any rivals to the classic beauties of Arles and St. Rémy,
we had come prepared for a welcome break in the monotonous plainness
of Burgundian humanity, a subject on which I shall have more to say
later on. Yet the types we met hereabouts, if not, on the whole,
attractive, were certainly not without the individuality that natural
vivacity imparts. My wife, sketching the great gate of the abbey, was
scandalized by the inordinate amount of child-smacking indulged in by
the mothers of the neighbourhood. I was not a witness on that occasion,
but I am inclined to think, that, in most cases, she failed to allow
for the excitability of a semi-southern temperament, and, could she
have read them, would have found more hardness in the hands than in the
hearts.
The little Hotel de Bourgogne, a white, straggling old building, snugly
placed beneath the protecting walls of the Tour de l'Eau Bénite,
added its quota to our amusement. The ways of the establishment were
refreshingly unconventional. For example, they rang neither bell nor
gong for dinner, but sent up two maids, who popped their tousled heads
simultaneously in at the bedroom door, and invited us to come down to
a meal, which, by the way, quite maintained the traditions of later
Clunisian luxe.
The company, too, was notable. We sat at the head of the table. On my
right was an individual whose cruel, yet suffering, face reminded me
of the executioner in Van der Weyden's great picture in the hospital
at Beaune. I gathered that the digestive organs were the seat of his
troubles; for he rejected, with a grunt, the normal fare, preferring
to dine on lightly-boiled eggs, whose liquid contents he imbibed by
a peculiar, sucking process, that was, in its way, a clever, though
noisy, gastronomic feat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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