From Hattin we are soon at Tiberias, a town once beautiful and famous,
but now notorious for the filth of its streets and the activity of
its vermin. The Arabs say that the king of the fleas holds his court
there. Josephus tells us that the city was built by Herod Antipas,
and named in honour of the Emperor Tiberius. It was therefore a new
city in Christ’s day, and probably at first inhabited only by Romans,
Antipas himself having a palace there, adorned with figures of animals,
“contrary to the Jewish law.” Moreover, as it was built on the site
of an ancient burial ground, it would be regarded by the Jews as a
polluted and forbidden locality. These circumstances, taken together,
may account for the fact that Jesus Christ does not appear ever to have
entered the city.
The former greatness of Tiberias is indicated by the extent of the
walls, 12 feet in thickness, which have been traced by Dr Selah
Merrill and by Herr Schumacher for a distance of 3 miles, on the south
side. In the course of the wall is an old castle on the summit of a
hill, 1000 feet above the town. An aqueduct, 9 miles long, brought pure
water from a distance, whereas the present inhabitants are content
to drink of the waters of the lake. Looking about in the town we
notice some traces of its former grandeur; here a magnificent block of
polished granite from Upper Egypt, there a hunting scene carved on the
surface of a hard black lintel of basalt, besides old buildings, and
broken shafts and columns half buried in rubbish.
From Tiberias we go north, and after a ride of 3 miles reach Medjel,
which represents the Magdala of Christ’s time, and is known wherever
the New Testament is read as the home of Mary Magdalene. The village
is insignificant, being only a collection of huts and hovels; the
people are poor and degraded, and their children half naked. Travellers
approaching the place are greeted by the howling of dogs, which rush
out as though they would devour them.
Tiberias and Medjel are the only places now inhabited about the lake,
and the visitor is impressed with a sense of deadness and desolation.
Yet the lake is beautiful, and upon its shores there were in Christ’s
time no less than nine cities, while numerous villages dotted the
plains and hills around. All the surrounding region was highly
cultivated, and the lake itself was covered with fishing boats. There
are no more than half a dozen boats now--made at Beyrout, or some other
seaport town, and brought hither on the backs of camels--but the lake
still swarms with fish. When a revolver was fired into the water at
random several fishes were killed and floated on the surface.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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