By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
History
By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
At noon to-day, however, the western sky indicated a breeze, and
presently a little breath stole ever so gently over the quiet ocean,
scarcely curling the smooth, level plane of the sea; and, gradually
freshening, the ship gathered steerage way in five minutes or so and
began to lazily move ahead through a large flock of Cape pigeons which
had settled to feed in great numbers during the calm, though we could
perceive nothing edible in the water. The birds seemed to delight in
the breeze as much as we did, for in light weather they seldom rise
higher than a few feet above the surface, lacking the force of wind
which enables them to rise easily; as in a strong breeze they make no
further effort than to guide themselves, rising and falling without
movement of wing. A huge, hoary albatross, a perfect old patriarch, has
been with us all day, skimming over the water so closely as to touch it
occasionally with his breast, and seldom more than a foot from it. It
is wonderful that they can maintain so close and uniform a flight to
the surface, without movement and in a calm.
The day before yesterday, being more exasperated than ever before at
the skipper’s continuous grumbling at the weather, I told him that I
thought that he asked altogether too much in demanding a fair wind all
the time, and that when a man began a voyage he ought to expect more or
less head-winds throughout the passage, for they were to be expected
anywhere and at any minute at sea during a whole voyage, even in the
Trades. Since then he hasn’t said a word against the weather, and is,
for him, extremely agreeable. Heavens, how hairy he is! So thickly
covered is his whole face that the only visible bare spots are his nose
and eyes; for his beard grows right up over his cheek-bones, and his
eyebrows seem to be spreading all over his forehead. So dense are his
whiskers that when he comes on deck after a session with his Dutch pipe
the smoke can still be seen eddying and seething in his beard.
Last evening as we were reading some of Kipling’s delightful sea-poems
the skipper called down and asked whether we wouldn’t like to see a
lunar rainbow. We went on deck at once, and there, sure enough, was a
perfect specimen of this strange phenomenon, and so clearly defined
that the brighter colors were distinctly visible. We had seen but one
lunar rainbow before, and that was a very faint one in the Bay of
Bengal, about one hundred miles from the Sandheads.
It is a curious fact that, like captains, there are comparatively few
foremast hands who remain perfectly strong and well throughout a long
passage. At least eight of ours are looking quite seedy, some with bad
colds, others with various disorders of liver and stomach, so that they
have to be doctored and fixed up with an assortment of medicines. The
way that five-grain blue-mass pills fly around on a deep-water ship is
a caution; one would think they were peppermint drops. Latitude 45° 20′
south; longitude 62° 10′ west.
+July 7+
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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