By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
History
By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
into the clutches of Stanley Harbor; it is almost impossible to escape
in less than six months, and the most exorbitant prices are asked for
absolutely necessary things. The last vessel of any size which put into
Stanley for extensive repairs was the British ship “Pass of Balmaha,”
which was detained there for nearly a year. It is stated that the
ship-yard, etc., pays forty per cent. on the investment.
At one o’clock this morning we passed Cape Virgins at the Atlantic
entrance to the Straits of Magellan, distant about seventy-five miles,
and at eleven this morning Mr. Rarx saw the land on the weather-bow,
and presently the lonely, barren shores of Tierra del Fuego rose
faintly out of the sea and appeared also on the port bow, as though
we were sailing into the heart of a deep bight, as indeed we were.
Before long great ice-covered peaks began to appear, and I asked the
skipper if he was going to keep away for the Straits of Le Maire. “No,”
he replied, “I’m not going through now for several reasons; in the
first place, I think the wind will head us in the straits, and in the
second place, as long as this wind keeps on I’m going to heave to under
the land when we get farther down. What’s the good of going through?
As soon as we showed ourselves outside Staten Land there’d be this
westerly gale, with who knows how much sea; then there’s a two-knot
current settin’ to the eastward, and this, with three points of leeway,
would send us to leeward like a cask. Better lie snug inside than go
smashin’ into those seas. In a day or two perhaps we can go through the
Straits of Le Mar.” It is odd that every ship-master whom I have ever
heard mention these straits should call it Le Mar instead of Le Maire.
Captain Scruggs added that we would have fine views of Tierra del
Fuego later on, as he was going to run down to within ten miles of the
land; we are therefore anticipating a very great treat.
It is utterly impossible to fitly describe these sunsets or to do
justice to the wild grandeur of the scene as the orb slowly and
majestically settles into the sea among the far-away, golden-cushioned
clouds. In the tropics the sun seems to drop suddenly behind the
horizon; but in these high latitudes, he sinks so hesitatingly that it
appears as though he were loath to bid us good-night. The air at this
time of day is most wonderfully transparent here, with a sparkle of
frost in the atmosphere; while the clouds, being almost exclusively
of the stratus variety, stretch across the horizon in layers of fiery
embers, with sometimes a gorgeous fringe of cloud-fleece crowning the
scene with a coronet of dazzling splendor; while if a heavy bar of
dark cloud extends almost to the sky-line, the sun will be observed
glittering beneath it upon the crests of the far-distant seas, with the
appearance as of a phalanx of golden breakers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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