By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
History
By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
the waist watching the land draw nearer and nearer, while the captain
stood on the cabin-house motionless, except when he slightly revolved
his arm as a signal to the helmsman to hold her up all he could between
the puffs. Oh, how deserted and bleak the immense gray-brown cliffs
and snow-streaked hills of Staten Land appeared, broken now and then
by gigantic fissures which extended far inland between vertical walls,
against which the sea broke furiously, throwing cascades of spray high
into the air! Astern, too, the view was equally rugged and grand, for
across the Straits of Le Maire we could see the ragged coast of Tierra
del Fuego and the massive white cone of the Bell Mountain rising up
beyond the Bay of Good Success.
All at once it became apparent to us that we were holding a better
wind, the land no longer seemed to advance upon us, and at the end of
another half-hour, during which no one seemed to scarcely breathe, to
our unspeakable joy it was plain that the worst was over and that, bar
accident, we would fetch by without further anxiety; and presently the
skipper turned to Louis, the Frenchman (for this splendid seaman had
steered the ship beautifully since eight o’clock), and said, “Now give
her a good rap-full”; in thirty minutes more all danger was over and we
stowed that upper maintop-sail which had done such noble work.
One +P.M.+ The wind has risen to a full gale with puffs of
almost hurricane force; and though we are still protected by the land,
the sea is running high, probably thirty feet from crest to trough,
and breaking in an ugly manner. At noon the order was passed, “All
hands haul up the foresail.” This was the first occasion on which it
was blowing too hard to carry that sail; and when it has to be stowed
it is blowing what sailors call a heavy gale. The wind, indeed, almost
blew the breath back into one’s throat; but the brave old ship behaved
finely, and after the foresail was hauled up, no matter how high or
fast the advancing wave was or how suddenly it broke, the back-wash
would rush out from the vessel’s side, and, meeting the on-rushing sea,
they would shoot far up into the air, to be blown in drift all over
the ship, while she rode calmly and safely over the crest. We have not
set the spencer lately, as we have been wearing every few hours, which
would necessitate brailing it up every time; I was surprised that the
captain didn’t set it this morning, but he seemed to depend more upon
the maintop-sail.
There are two vessels to windward knocking about under easy sail
as we are,--one a small bark, the other a large four-masted ship,
square-rigged all over,--waiting for a slant. My wife has recovered
her equanimity now (about three in the afternoon), for she was
not unnaturally upset by the events of this morning. She behaved
astonishingly well, though, during that crucial hour, and her courage
and fortitude cannot be too highly commended. Latitude, 54° 20′ south;
longitude, 64° 30′ west.
+July 12+
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