By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
History
By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
We looked in vain with the glasses for the little steamer which makes
regular, monthly trips to the Falkland Islands and at times even to
Montevideo; but she was not visible, and was no doubt away on one of
her voyages. A truly turbulent life in one sense this one on the little
vessel, but hardly so dreary as the lives of the seal-fishers who
winter at St. John, which is, I believe, the southernmost permanent
settlement on the globe, and from October to April penetrate deep into
the Southern Ocean in pursuit of their livelihood.
Two strange, natural formations attract the attention far out on Cape
St. John. The first is a mass of gray rock perched upon the very brim
of a vertical cliff, almost overhanging the surf that boils furiously
around it, bearing a striking resemblance to an ancient feudal castle;
and one can see, as it were, the high walls with heavy battlements, and
the lofty crenellated towers of the massive edifice. The second object
is another monolith so closely resembling the Sphinx that one starts on
first catching sight of it, for it seems impossible that mere chance
could produce so accurate a counterpart of the famous Egyptian monument.
Well, we have seen Staten Land almost in its entirety; and if we didn’t
have the satisfaction of passing through the Le Maire Straits, we went
a third of the distance in last Sunday morning; and we have beheld the
cape and settlement of St. John, where the scenery is, if possible,
even grander and more desolate than at the western end. How odd it is,
by the way, if Cape St. Anthony, near the straits, should have been
so called from the temptation that possesses mariners to pass through
instead of going around the island, thereby often incurring great risk!
On issuing into the open sea we fell into a tide-rip caused by the
swift currents meeting at the point of the land, this rip being at
times so heavy as to fill the decks of large ships. A number of
hail-squalls descended upon us here, and as the land at noontime had
grown very dim, at that hour we had what I fear was our last glimpse of
the sorrowful hills of Staten Land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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