By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
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By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
Last night was an almost perfect one, with moonlight nearly as bright
as sunshine and the sky absolutely free from clouds. About the hour
of sunset we witnessed what, for spectacular effects, was perhaps the
finest scenery that we have had yet. At four o’clock all the mists,
etc., that sailors call muck had disappeared, disclosing in its entire
length of fifty miles the south side of Staten Land. This consists
altogether of jagged rocks and fierce, angry peaks shooting up three
thousand feet above the sea. The eastern or St. John end of the island
was wrapped in gloom and shadow, while the rest of the land swept
superbly down toward the west, stretching away in ridges of wonderfully
fantastic beauty, the peaks near the straits soaring up grandly against
a rich crimson glare where the sun had sunk behind a rift in the
clouds. Gradually, however, the light was diffused over the entire
western heavens, changing from soft golden tints to royal purples and
scarlets, which spread over the glorious mountains a cloud-mantle
almost supernatural in its marvellous hues. Imperceptibly, however, the
bright colors began to wane and grow dull, shapes of dun vapor seemed
to rise from the land, and at length darkness fell upon the deep and
the mountains receded till engulfed in the blackness of night.
The scene on deck at 8.30 was also one long to be cherished, with the
joyous, rosy light of advancing day in the northeast, the full moon
slowly falling, a huge golden ball, behind the western horizon, and the
tall, violet pyramid of the Bell Mountain on Tierra del Fuego rising
out of the sea fair and soft, far away in the northwest. Ah, no one
knows what the real beauties of the sea are until he has made at least
one deep-water voyage in a sailing ship! The flying glimpse of the
Atlantic that one catches from the deck of a steamer or the experiences
of a midwinter voyage to the Mediterranean in a North German Lloyder
gives one no true idea of what ocean life really is. No; to comprehend
the sea in all of its splendid phases one must live on it for months at
a time; for not till then can one fully appreciate that “They that go
down to the sea in ships, that do business in great waters; these see
the works of the Lord, and His wonders in the deep.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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