By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
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By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
Hail, mighty sun! Welcome, radiant, glorious monarch! We saw the
luminous orb for ten minutes at mid-day, marking an epoch, for events
off Cape Horn date from the last time that the sun was seen. When day
broke this morning, behold! the sky was clear and everything presaged
at least two hours of bright sunshine. No sooner, however, did the orb
show signs of appearing above the horizon than a cloud-bank arose in
the west which proved to be the mother of a procession of squalls which
covered the sky for the rest of the day, bar a few minutes at noon. But
how we did rejoice for even a glimpse of the heavenly body! For days
we had dwelt in darkness and twilight, and when we caught sight of the
golden disk again it was like the face of an old friend. No one who
has not experienced it can imagine what the gloom of Cape Horn is like
even at mid-day. It has doubtless somewhat the effect of the darkness
of the Polar seas, which, it is said, kills more men than frost and
starvation. Practically, throughout the year the heavens in this region
are wrapped up in a pall of cloud so dense and low as to feel like an
increased atmospheric pressure; and unless one’s spirits are as elastic
as rubber the mind must succumb to the dreary influence of this endless
waste of gray ocean. It is oppressive beyond the power of words; and so
great is the solitude that it is difficult to believe that we are still
on the earth and not floating upon the ocean of another planet.
“So lonely ’twas, that God himself
Scarce seemed there to be.”
The sun’s altitude at noon was only 8° 42′, so that he was only about
sixteen diameters above the horizon; but notwithstanding, all hands
hailed him with glad pæans, and deep and mournful was the wailing
when he withdrew. At eleven o’clock, while we were reading below,
the skipper called down to know if we didn’t want to see a regular
old-fashioned squall. So up we went, and upon issuing from the
companion-way were almost literally blown over by a heavy gust. The
ship was hove down till the sea flowed over the lee rail thick and
smooth and dark, like the water on the verge of a cataract; the wind
howled and screeched overhead; spray fell in blinding sheets; while
the snow was positively overpowering and almost smothered us when we
looked to windward. The ship for some time had dragged a double-reefed
maintop-sail, and it was every stitch that she could stand. All
through the day we were bombarded by these squalls, and by three in
the afternoon the wind had once more increased to a fresh gale, with a
wicked, breaking sea which frequently broke on the poop itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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