By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipperStevenson, Paul Eve
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By way of Cape Horn : $b four months in a Yankee clipper
Stevenson, Paul Eve
Hosea Higgins (Ship); Seafaring life; Voyages to the Pacific coast
Poor Paddy’s arms from wrist to elbow are perfect mountain-chains of
sea-boils, and he looks as ghastly and pallid as a corpse, with pointed
nose and staring eyes; his entire appearance has changed. It may be
interesting to add that the majority of foremast hands do not live to
be forty-three years old.
I forgot to say that for the first time in five weeks the mate shaved
for dinner to-day, and so sleek and blue and shiny and naked did it
make him look, that it was almost a shock when he sat down opposite us.
Latitude, 45° 2′ south; longitude, 87° 40′ west.
+August 2+
This day was even finer than yesterday, except that since ten this
forenoon we haven’t had much wind. But the weather is warmer, 48° at 8
+A.M.+, and the sea is as placid and still and clear as under
the line. All the ground-swell has disappeared, and the great, level
expanse of the mighty South Pacific stretches on all sides in tiny
crinkles, frosted here and there by a crisp sparkle of froth; and the
sea-rim bounds the view in a circle as sharp and black as ink. It was
a day of almost tropic beauty, save that the air lacked the ineffable
balm characteristic of a day at sea between Cancer and Capricorn. We
rejoice at seeing the sky-sails once more expanded to the breeze, for
to-day the three yards were crossed, giving to the ship a fine-weather
look. Juan Fernandez will soon be abeam, and then only a few degrees
more to the Trades, for we made three and a half degrees of latitude
yesterday and hardly any easting. How pleasant it is to think of the
approach of warm weather again, when we can lie in deck-chairs in the
shadow of the wheel-house with a good book, or pass away the hours with
a backgammon- or cribbage-board!
We are very much pleased to find how free this ship is from roaches
that usually abound in sailing vessels; the only member of that
objectionable family that we have yet perceived was a small red one;
of the large, black cockroaches we have not seen one, though on the
“Mandalore” we were told that they were numerous on all wooden ships.
Neither have we discovered any of the more villanous creatures, which
cannot be said of many transatlantic mail steamers.
A fact worthy of note, as deplorable as it was unexpected, is that
since passing the meridian of Cape Horn we have not seen a single
albatross. Indeed, during the whole passage we haven’t seen more than a
dozen of them, they having been most numerous between the river Plate
and Staten Land. In truth, the albatross seems to be disappearing,
which is not astonishing when it is considered that many ship-masters
either use them as rifle-targets or catch them by the half-dozen
with hook and line, and take the quills and down home to sweethearts
and wives. Is it not odd, by the way, that there are more benedicts
among sea-captains than are to be found among the men of any other
profession? Yet long-voyage skippers, who are invariably married men,
see their wives only once a year.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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